1mm spacers

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daz680
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Post by daz680 »

ScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here? :-k
with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should do
Currently building RC30 lookalike
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ScottaKR
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Post by ScottaKR »

daz680 wrote:
ScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here? :-k
with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should do
But wouldn't that leave the possibility that the bearings could be offset to one side in the wheel when fitting?
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daz680
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Post by daz680 »

ScottaKR wrote:
daz680 wrote:
ScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here? :-k
with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should do
But wouldn't that leave the possibility that the bearings could be offset to one side in the wheel when fitting?
No, the left hand bearing will sit against the cirlip that is beind the speedo drive
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headcoats
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Post by headcoats »

That circlip just holds part of the drive for the speedo gear.
The inside of the speedo gear has a tube which butts up against the inner race of the wheel bearing.
You could run it without the circlip,which you shouldn't but you could :?

Getting complicated 8-[
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daz680
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Post by daz680 »

exactly, so if the speedo drive is all fitted correctly then the bearing will sit against it on the inner race and the bearings will be spaced correctly by a 2mm longer tube
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JanBros
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Post by JanBros »

IMHO : Scotty's solution is the only correct one.

if you don't space the bearing, the hole wheel could move 1mm.
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john-b
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Post by john-b »

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1mm-Stainless ... 4aae9abebe

Im sure they will make you what you want. And no i dont want to go for a ride :lol: :lol:
I wish i knew something about KR's so i was like knowledgeable about them and everything like what you lot are ;-) :-) :-)
will77
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Post by will77 »

Thanks very much guys, have fitted wheel today with 1s shaft and 10mm bearing and all feels tight without spacers, I've decided to do both options of shim/spacer and Dazs idea and try both, I will let you know when up and rolling. Really glad I'm on this forum with all the help :D
New to Forum, restoring a KR1...or should i say building from scratch
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JanBros
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Post by JanBros »

whatever you do, make sure the wheel side with the circlip has a 1mm spacer. this is the only thing that stops the wheel going left-right. you may not be able to move the wheel by hand because the bearring isn't a loose fit, but you never know what can happen when fully loaded when riding.
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