As anyone experimented with battery eliminators ???

Dodgy Kips motor? CDI? battery? diode? reg/rect? its all gobbledygook to me but some people understand it ask tham a question here
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As anyone experimented with battery eliminators ???

Post by pauliboy » Sat Feb 28, 2015 6:32 pm ... 3&hash=ite

As anyone ever tried one of these ? Besides the obvious weight saving of 1 to 2.5kg by not having a battery as anyone experienced any more advantages/disadvantages ? No good for electric start bikes but fine for KR1-S with kickstart and CDi ignition. Still operates the KIPS system once the engine as been started.

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Re: As anyone experimented with battery eliminators ???

Post by Luders » Sat Feb 28, 2015 7:09 pm

I don't suppose you'll be surprised, but I ran one in my 2012 bike. So long as you have a changing system on your bike, they work well and save a massive amount of space. I was able to re-route all my electrics to the front sub-frame to ensure everything is kept dry during wet races.

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Re: As anyone experimented with battery eliminators ???

Post by James P » Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:28 am

You could likely save yourself some money by buying the parts at a shop which sells electronic components (a "battery eliminator" is just an electrolytic capacitor).

One point to be aware of is the voltage rating. Although a 12V rating should be fine in theory, these capacitors tend to explode if the rated voltage is exceeded on a regular or prolonged basis.
If the regulator on a KR-1/1S fails, it seems that the tacho and CDI unit are the first things to be damaged, although I'm not sure exactly how long it takes (or at what voltage the damage begins to be done).
The normal regulated voltage is in the order of 14V. If the voltage is not regulated it will exceed 35V, depending on the engine speed. I would therefore suggest a voltage rating of no less than 24V (but preferably more) for a battery eliminator. Unfortunately, the prices of these capacitors go up with the voltage ratings.

I have made a few battery eliminators using 40V, 10,000uF capacitors (cost about A$10 each). It is reckoned that more capacity is better - I initially used just one capacitor by itself, but I later connected three in parallel for a 30,000uF capacity. Either way, I've never had any trouble with them and all the electrical functions work fine while the engine is running.


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