Petrol Tank KR250 query

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Whaka_man
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Petrol Tank KR250 query

Post by Whaka_man » Sat Aug 12, 2006 7:49 am

I have a KR250 that I have no keys for. The petrol tank has allen key screws that hold the petrol cap on. I have undone the screws but still cant remove the top of the tank.

Is there something that I need to do or does it have to have the key to remove the petrol cap and surrounding guard.

I am aware that I will need a key for the ignition and tank. I will have to remove the cap as It needs to be replaced , I have a spare fuel tank which has had the tumbler removed and also the other tank is in better order.


would be glad to hear of a remedy

Rob
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corky
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Post by corky » Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:36 am

hi mate most tank caps have to have the cap open to remove them as the locking catch holds it down, as well as a small screw, that you will see once it is open.
if i do not have a key i usually just drill down to the depth of the tumbler and the all the pins are free to move so you can open it with a screwdriver..
OR
a good locksmith can cut a key from the lock so if it is the same key as the ignition you can remove the ignition and take it to a locksmith..
hope this helps..
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Whaka_man
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petrol tank

Post by Whaka_man » Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:04 am

appreciate the reply, I did drill out the old tank but will have to get a key cut, thanks for confirming that the tank cap has to be open to remove it.
Rob
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col
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Post by col » Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:32 am

have a look at the ignition barrel if you've got one, there is sometimes a number on there that coresponds to the key and you can get one cut from the number

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Post by Falcon911 » Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:16 am

Hi All,

I have just purchased a KR-1 and have a similar problem - I dont have the key for the petrol tank cap. Can the barrel be replaced or do I have to replace the whole unit? If so where can you recommend I get one? I am assuming the genuine Kawasaki one will cost a fortune (if they are still available)?
Would be nice to have the same key for the ignition and tank - what have others done?

Many thanks
Andy

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Post by salty » Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:19 pm

I have bought 2 complete locksets from Ebay (tank, ignition & rear seat) both were £35 - I may have a partial set (tank & ignition) in the garage - I bought a new tank today that has a key - dont need the cap or key, bit stiff at the moment but WD40 should shift it - once it warms up I will see what I have and send it on for a notional fee - £5 for tank £10 for tank + ignition

Salty

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Post by Falcon911 » Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:04 am

salty wrote:I have bought 2 complete locksets from Ebay (tank, ignition & rear seat) both were £35 - I may have a partial set (tank & ignition) in the garage - I bought a new tank today that has a key - dont need the cap or key, bit stiff at the moment but WD40 should shift it - once it warms up I will see what I have and send it on for a notional fee - £5 for tank £10 for tank + ignition

Salty
Hi Salty,

Many thanks, that would be great.

Cheers
Andy

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JanBros
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Post by JanBros » Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:56 am

in the late 80's-90's, Kawasaki put the same petrol cap on about every bike they had, so you can buy any second hand from a ZZR/ZXR/GTR/GPZ/GPX...

there are 2 types, depending on the key, so look out for one that has a barrel where your key fits in, and then either change the pins in the ignition switch or petrol cap to have 1 key for the whole bike.
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Post by Falcon911 » Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:41 am

JanBros wrote:in the late 80's-90's, Kawasaki put the same petrol cap on about every bike they had, so you can buy any second hand from a ZZR/ZXR/GTR/GPZ/GPX...

there are 2 types, depending on the key, so look out for one that has a barrel where your key fits in, and then either change the pins in the ignition switch or petrol cap to have 1 key for the whole bike.
Thanks for the reply and the info. Sorry I am sure I being a bit thick but I am not entirely sure what I need to look for or know what you are talking about when you mention the 'pins '?

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Post by salty » Sat Jan 19, 2013 6:59 pm

Taken the cap off the new tank, the lock works fine with an original kawasaki key - pm your address and I will post monday. If you like it paypal me a fiver to cover post

Salty

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Post by JanBros » Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:11 pm

Falcon911 wrote: I am not entirely sure what I need to look for or know what you are talking about when you mention the 'pins '?
the small sliding parts inside the barrel that have to match to the key for the barrel to be able to turn :wink:

if you don't understand, your locksmith will :wink:
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Top-shaggy
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Post by Top-shaggy » Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:13 pm

JanBros wrote:
Falcon911 wrote: I am not entirely sure what I need to look for or know what you are talking about when you mention the 'pins '?
the small sliding parts inside the barrel that have to match to the key for the barrel to be able to turn :wink:

if you don't understand, your locksmith will :wink:
Sorry not the best picture as the light not good in the shed today..
You match up the little brass pins that fit to the key profile. I've done this a few times - its a very fiddly job but not too difficult if your careful. Each brass pin springs out as you remove the key. Match up so they are flush to the barrel when the key is fully inserted (or remove the offending one... but of course that compromises security).

The only thing that stops you doing this is having a barrel and key that's the same handed for each lock. IE some keys are right handed and some left handed. You ideally need all of them RH or LH to easily make a suite.

Phew.. Sounds confusing but its not really once you take them to bits.
Hope it helps


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Post by Falcon911 » Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:46 am

salty wrote:Taken the cap off the new tank, the lock works fine with an original kawasaki key - pm your address and I will post monday. If you like it paypal me a fiver to cover post

Salty
Pm sent - I think! Not sure it went from my phone?

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Post by Falcon911 » Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:51 am

Top-shaggy wrote:
JanBros wrote:
Falcon911 wrote: I am not entirely sure what I need to look for or know what you are talking about when you mention the 'pins '?
the small sliding parts inside the barrel that have to match to the key for the barrel to be able to turn :wink:

if you don't understand, your locksmith will :wink:
Sorry not the best picture as the light not good in the shed today..
You match up the little brass pins that fit to the key profile. I've done this a few times - its a very fiddly job but not too difficult if your careful. Each brass pin springs out as you remove the key. Match up so they are flush to the barrel when the key is fully inserted (or remove the offending one... but of course that compromises security).
The only thing that stops you doing this is having a barrel and key that's the same handed for each lock. IE some keys are right handed and some left handed. You ideally need all of them RH or LH to easily make a suite.

Phew.. Sounds confusing but its not really once you take them to bits.
Hope it helps
It does help. Cheers for taking the time. Excellent forum this!

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Thanks

Post by Falcon911 » Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:12 pm

A big personal thanks to Salty who true to his word sent me the fuel cap for my bike. I am more than impressed already with the knowledge and helpfulness of the members. Top Man Salty!

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