kr1 engine in rs frame

Show us that box of bits in your shed!
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streetfighter_danny
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Post by streetfighter_danny »

JanBros wrote:@ mgtkr1 : RS125 has the chain on the left side, and the shape off the swing arm won't allow the chain to run on the left side (I thinck) :wink:
100% correct jan.the rs swingarm final drive is on the right hand side.ive used a cagiva mito swingarm which is left hand final drive.also just found the cagiva mono shock linkage which i will be using and still will be using the ohlins shock.just ordered some alloy plates bar and tube as i have a plan.keep watching as i will be starting the re-shape next week.

cheers danny
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Post by alimorg »

Well done danny, cant wait to see it finished now
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Post by TwoStroke Institute »

Awesome
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streetfighter_danny
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Post by streetfighter_danny »

ive started to mock up the revised rear shock set up using a shock linkage.
pics attached.
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mgtkr1
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Post by mgtkr1 »

beefed up with thicker material could work, does the linkage work in this setup? def looks better than the old setup. just be aware of the forces that rear suspension movement generates.good to see you aint gave up at the first hurdle.
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scooble
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Post by scooble »

do the extra brackets have any effect on the tank and seat position?
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ScottaKR
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Post by ScottaKR »

scooble wrote:do the extra brackets have any effect on the tank and seat position?
I don't think it will after looking at some of the earlier pics with the tank and subframe attached.

Obviously being a mock up, there's still a lot more to do in making it strong enough to cope with the load, but it's certainly looking a lot more promising than the previous configuration. Definately a step in th eright direction. =D>
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streetfighter_danny
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Post by streetfighter_danny »

scooble wrote:do the extra brackets have any effect on the tank and seat position?
the shock mount that ive mocked up dosnt interfere with the subframe.the subframe can still be mounted in the original position which means the tank will still fit in the same position. :)
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JanBros
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Post by JanBros »

not that I want to piss you off again, but why do you keep calling that an öhlins shock ?
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Post by streetfighter_danny »

mgtkr1 wrote:beefed up with thicker material could work, does the linkage work in this setup? def looks better than the old setup. just be aware of the forces that rear suspension movement generates.good to see you aint gave up at the first hurdle.
ive used 6mm alloy plate and 25mm solid box section.plates bolted to the frame with m8 bolts in 3 places either side using the original aprilia engine head mounts.box secured with 2 m10 bolts.shock mount is 4mm angle secured to box with 4 m6 bolts tapped through the box section and i will use long enough bolts so i can put some nyloc nuts for extra security.

thinking of strengthening using the mount below ( can see behind the shock) making some plates and attaching to the box.

at the moment it seems very strong and the shock and linkage works very well.
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Post by streetfighter_danny »

JanBros wrote:not that I want to piss you off again, but why do you keep calling that an öhlins shock ?
well i bought the shock off a guy up the road from me.came off a accident damaged 2007 cbr 1000 that had a front ender.the guy said its a showa shock with an ohlins spring.so its a bit of a mixed one. :)
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Post by rgv250geoff »

streetfighter_danny wrote: ive used 6mm alloy plate and 25mm solid box section.

at the moment it seems very strong and the shock and linkage works very well.
Where do you buy your solid box section from Danny? :?

Have you tried taking the spring off the shock and trying the swinging arm through it'd full range of movement? From your photo's, I can't see where your dog bones are connected to the frame, but it's worth checking the full range.

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Post by JanBros »

rgv250geoff wrote: Have you tried taking the spring off the shock and trying the swinging arm through it'd full range of movement? From your photo's, I can't see where your dog bones are connected to the frame, but it's worth checking the full range.

Geoff (Slim) :)
I would to. wheel travel should be between 10 - 12 cm on full range off the shock.

and I would use M8's in stead off M6's :wink:
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Post by streetfighter_danny »

rgv250geoff wrote:
streetfighter_danny wrote: ive used 6mm alloy plate and 25mm solid box section.

at the moment it seems very strong and the shock and linkage works very well.
Where do you buy your solid box section from Danny? :?

Have you tried taking the spring off the shock and trying the swinging arm through it'd full range of movement? From your photo's, I can't see where your dog bones are connected to the frame, but it's worth checking the full range.

Geoff (Slim) :)
i buy all my alloy from ebay,get a good price on some off cuts.the alloy box section is 25mm square and was 300mm long cost me just over £8 posted.
ive not tried taking the spring off,but now youve mentioned it i will go ahead with that idea to check full range of shock movement.last thing i want is anything binding.the bottom dogbone is connected to the frame mount where the original aprilia dog bone mounted.for some strange reason it lined up perfectly..which was great,no need for any messing about.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALUMINIUM-SQUARE- ... 62a4e5ebay link for box section.


danny.

danny.
Last edited by streetfighter_danny on Mon May 17, 2010 8:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
streetfighter_danny
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Post by streetfighter_danny »

JanBros wrote:
rgv250geoff wrote: Have you tried taking the spring off the shock and trying the swinging arm through it'd full range of movement? From your photo's, I can't see where your dog bones are connected to the frame, but it's worth checking the full range.

Geoff (Slim) :)
I would to. wheel travel should be between 10 - 12 cm on full range off the shock.

and I would use M8's in stead off M6's :wink:
hi jan,i will check the travel of the shock and i can replace the m6 bolts with m8s.will drill and re-tap the threads and use long enough bolts so i can put m8 nyloc nuts on aswell for extra strength.

danny.
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