kr1 engine in rs frame

[ScottaKR]

Danny, I'm a bit concerened about the square bar your using only haveing one bolt in each end. This will leave it able to rotate in use which will not only affect ride height and stabilty, but could also cause the left side bolt to lossen leading to a complete rear supension collapse.
The alloy angle your using to mount the shock to said bar also seems somewhat lacking in strength to me, and looks like it would bend and distort (and eventually fail) if not seriously reinforced. Look at how beefy the material used for the factory shock mount is, and use that as a guide. I think the upright mounting plates could be thicker and mounted with much larger/stronger bolts.

Please understand that I'm not taking shots at you here, as you seem to be trying hard to make this all work. But, I'd rather point out what I think needs changing to make it safe and have you think me a tw4t, than to say nothing at all.

[streetfighter_danny]

Danny, I'm a bit concerened about the square bar your using only haveing one bolt in each end. This will leave it able to rotate in use which will not only affect ride height and stabilty, but could also cause the left side bolt to lossen leading to a complete rear supension collapse.
The alloy angle your using to mount the shock to said bar also seems somewhat lacking in strength to me, and looks like it would bend and distort (and eventually fail) if not seriously reinforced. Look at how beefy the material used for the factory shock mount is, and use that as a guide. I think the upright mounting plates could be thicker and mounted with much larger/stronger bolts.

Please understand that I'm not taking shots at you here, as you seem to be trying hard to make this all work. But, I'd rather point out what I think needs changing to make it safe and have you think me a tw4t, than to say nothing at all.

thanks for your comments.you mention the square bar could rotate and i totally agree.as this is just mocking up stage is still know i have to strengthen this set up.at the moment it is just to get the shock in the correct position and working effectively.

i plan on using some angle bolted to the square bar and then bolted to the side plates to prevent the rotation.the side plates are 6mm thick and i think they are solid enough.secured directly to the frame 3 x m8 40 bolts either side tapped into the frame using original threads.the complete side of the plates are hard against the frame so they cant twist or bend.with the square bar where its at will stop side to side bending.also thinking about linking a bar from the square box to the original shock mount to prevent up and down movement.i think the 4 mm angle will be adequate once ive changed the m6 bolts to m8s.the angle being a short distance in length should be strong enough to cope with the forces generated.only one way to find out.lol.at the moment all seems very strong and once ive added a few things to the set up i think i will be onto a winner.will take more pics of the final result,then you can maybe let me know what you think and if i can improve anything.
dont forget ive got the engine to contend with after ive sorted this problem.but thats another story which you may offer you thoughts on.all help and comments ect very much welcomed.thankyou

danny.

[250 drummie]

I just found this thread and everone likes a special but its good to see you binned the original rear set up =D> That was going to end very badly. I would be keeping an eye on the new set up you got on the rear and watch for the alloy stretching on the 6mm plate. I work with steel every day of the week and I suggest you use at least 12mm plate as the 6 will flex and possibly tear through the holes and as Scott suggested weld box section instead of bolting it.
But keep going the person who never distroyed anything never made anything

[smithyrc30]

For information the shock mount on the RC30 is cross bolted into the frame (4 8mm bolts 25mm long 2 each side with 15mm engagement into the bracket).

Plate is 8mm thick, with extrusions to 12mm diameter around the bolt fixings.

The shock is then mounted on an adjustable (in race kit form) or fixed pivot (std).

Pick of the race bracket can be seen here:

http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r66309423

This one has been butchered....

It might be a good starting point, though I am not sure what the RS frame rails look like.

I would go with 8mm, because I do not think you can tighten the 6mm ones sufficiently in aluminium to get enough clamp load to make it work.

Incidentally the R6 pivot bolt screws into the h***a piece.....

Who is copying whose homework???

[Howie]

How's it going Danny?

Any updates for us? I'm still willing to buy it you know

Only kidding, let us know whats going on. I really want this one to be a goer

[streetfighter_danny]

How's it going Danny?

Any updates for us? I'm still willing to buy it you know

Only kidding, let us know whats going on. I really want this one to be a goer

well the missus and kids are going away for a week to visit family and im staying behind.so will have some bike time this weekend and will update with pics.

[boredus]

Man this thread has had me spitting coffee all over the keyboard. Danny, I am glad you have listened to the advice that has been given and changed that shock arrangement you had originally. There was almost 0 leverage in that setup and you would have truelly ended up being violated by a large blunt object!

I have a few questions for you regarding the engine angle etc.
1. does the engine position allow the chain to run through without cutting in to the cases/gear lever area?
2.Kawasaki designed the oil flow of the engine as per the original angle. Are you certain that a, the geabox will circulate oil correctly and b, that the 2 stroke/fuel mixture will end up in all the right places so as not to seize the big end and little end bearings (Someone may be able to answer this as I truelly interested)
3. if the exhausts come out past your ears, where on earth are your legs going?
4. As has been mentioned, the forks are so close to the heads, you run the risk if putting the wheel into the water inlet, nevermind the powervalve mechanism which is on top of the engine, closer to the wheel again. What have you done to prevent this?
5. There is abosuletly no ground clearance at all with this. The spannies look like they will be grounding out as so as you sit on the bike.

There is a whole area of science on engine position/angle, squat etc that you have not considered. Some serious maths involved with that as well. I dont understand any of that jargon but really, you should look for some build threads on maybe the RGV forums where these things have been discussed before.

unfortunatly the way the engine is set up the bike looks like it has been ridden into the back of bus. I know you want to continue with this build, but lordie you have to rethink some bits on here before you hurt yourself.

Now dont get angry and just your dummy out again!

[streetfighter_danny]

Man this thread has had me spitting coffee all over the keyboard. Danny, I am glad you have listened to the advice that has been given and changed that shock arrangement you had originally. There was almost 0 leverage in that setup and you would have truelly ended up being violated by a large blunt object!

I have a few questions for you regarding the engine angle etc.
1. does the engine position allow the chain to run through without cutting in to the cases/gear lever area?
2.Kawasaki designed the oil flow of the engine as per the original angle. Are you certain that a, the geabox will circulate oil correctly and b, that the 2 stroke/fuel mixture will end up in all the right places so as not to seize the big end and little end bearings (Someone may be able to answer this as I truelly interested)
3. if the exhausts come out past your ears, where on earth are your legs going?
4. As has been mentioned, the forks are so close to the heads, you run the risk if putting the wheel into the water inlet, nevermind the powervalve mechanism which is on top of the engine, closer to the wheel again. What have you done to prevent this?
5. There is abosuletly no ground clearance at all with this. The spannies look like they will be grounding out as so as you sit on the bike.

There is a whole area of science on engine position/angle, squat etc that you have not considered. Some serious maths involved with that as well. I dont understand any of that jargon but really, you should look for some build threads on maybe the RGV forums where these things have been discussed before.

unfortunatly the way the engine is set up the bike looks like it has been ridden into the back of bus. I know you want to continue with this build, but lordie you have to rethink some bits on here before you hurt yourself.

Now dont get angry and just your dummy out again!

hello,thanks for your comments.this bike has dramatically changed.dosnt look like the pics anymore.will add pics once ive finished the rear shock mount.ive actually cut into the frame so now the engine is mounted correctly.ive taken the springs out of the forks so when there fully compressed i still have 3 inches clearance between the mudguard and thermostat housing.as for the rear ive modified the cross member for the dog bone to bolt onto the frame and im also currently sorting out the top shock mount.hardly get chance to get into the workshop with the missus bending my ear for jobs to be done around the house and kids wanting to go out.lol.will attach some pics soon.

[boredus]

Good, I am glad you are looking at the design and reworking all the time. There are plenty of people on here or on the RGV250 forum that would have given you plenty of advice when you started say maybe with a list of the parts collected and what you were planning to do.

I have done a couple of simular builds like this when I was younger and neither of them ended well. Thinking back I am too embarrased to talk about my mods ( and welding skills) but if I had known about the www and the likes of these forums my days would have gone a hell of a lot better.

I reckon it could be a good build for something different, if it is done properly.

Get us some updated pics up soon.

[Guxy]

This bike is dangerous and seriously Nieve, don't ride it mate change it also why would you use a kr engine on this project mate? 350 ypvs engine all the way!! Kr engines need extremely light chassis because they are peeky, go back to the drawing board mate. I realise its unfinished but it's also unrealistic! Lol