Work has progressed, despite the lack of updates
Firstly after the swapping the barrels over I checked the barrel heights, there were a few differences, you can the outside of the RH pot is lower in height
I reassembled the top end with some base gaskets I made from some 1.0mm gasket paper, it actually measured around 0.94mm. The squish check showed it was still on the tight side, the worst case 0.60mm on the outside of the RH pot
So i tried again, using two std base gaskets, these measure ~1.10mm, the results were better, the worst case, still the outside of the RH pot being 0.74mm, the largest dimension being 0.99mm. An interesting read of
http://kr-1r.com/kr1s/scans/PB_031992-2.jpg shows that Stan Stephens motors were set at a 0.035" squish, which is 0.89mm. So I'm happy I've not gone too far with the gap. Here's the results. Once it was all together and completed one heat cycle I dropped some solder in the RH pot at the outside, and it was 0.70mm. Motor was cold.
The broken oil pump union was causing me some grief. I bought an M6 to 4mm pneumatic fitting, made this little adapter, which would screw into the hose, but it sat too far out of the pump, cover wouldn't fit. back to the drawing board
I actually ended up using the old banjo, drilling and tapping it out to M5 and making a similar little adapter similar to the one above, that was screwed and loctited into banjo, it then screwed into the hose end, a little like a self tapper. It works, that's all I can say and doesn't leak. I bought some other pneumatic fittings and 4mm pipe to do the same, but also replacing the lines. The issue is all these fittings are larger than the std banjo, which is as we know, not available as a separate item. I might give this a go at some other time
Headcoats needs his sprocket carrier machined back. Not sure if you've had it done yet HC, but I'm home again now for a few days. here's mine while the wheel was out, trying it for size on the lathe
While the wheel was out I had a look at the rear caliper, it was slightly seized, mainly the slider. So a quick refurbish was in order. Pistons looked ok
I cleaned it up in the parts washer, then it went in the blast cab, using glass beads. Then into the ultrasonic tank to be sure it was clean, masked and paint.
I used an etch primer, then gold smoothrite [hammerite], then 2k lacquer over the top. There's obviously a difference in composition in the Hammerite. I was trying to refresh the top yoke of the NC30 and have been trying for ages. The black I used on that all reacted with the 2k lacquer, the gold didn't. Here's the finished caliper
I've did the wheels on my 205 ages back with the gold, no 2k lacquer tho'. It's still good. I've also done the calipers on the ZXR H1. Good thing is it's about £7 a tin
here's the finished item, bled up nice and easy. I think the fronts will need doing soon
