New project
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- Newbie
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:13 am
New project
Hi everyone
Not much to show so far - just picked this up last night. Going to explore the pile a bit more at the weekend. But I'm pretty sure she's complete and in mostly pretty good nick (apart from that piston / barrel ).
Probably will clean up and build back up quickly to get a better idea of completeness / where everything goes. Possibly get it running for the summer then give some proper attention over the winter.
Haven't decided yet whether to go for standard type restoration or something more in the modified line.
Not much to show so far - just picked this up last night. Going to explore the pile a bit more at the weekend. But I'm pretty sure she's complete and in mostly pretty good nick (apart from that piston / barrel ).
Probably will clean up and build back up quickly to get a better idea of completeness / where everything goes. Possibly get it running for the summer then give some proper attention over the winter.
Haven't decided yet whether to go for standard type restoration or something more in the modified line.
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- Heavy Smoker
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Sun Jun 26, 2016 12:42 pm
Re: New project
Cool nice to see another project keep the photos coming loads of help on here if needed
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- Newbie
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:13 am
Re: New project
Had a bit of a rummage and fettle at the weekend
Sorted stuff out into identifiable chunks, many of which had their fasteners still attached, but it left me with the below motley collection of bits that I'll be looking to when I'm building it up it looks like a piece of the jigsaw is missing. I'm sure most will reveal their purpose in time, but any up front id-ing from people here would be very handy (have already sussed fairing brackets, exhaust gaskets and rad hose clips, but am wondering especially where those two springs go and what the black plastic thingy is next to them, and what the wheel bearing spacer shaped thing is, that doesn't seem to be wheel bearing spacer as all those spaces are already occupied with spacers...
It looks like most of the fasteners - except for 5 odd ones - are the genuine items, which is faintly reassuring.
https://ibb.co/SnQFmRV
Sorted stuff out into identifiable chunks, many of which had their fasteners still attached, but it left me with the below motley collection of bits that I'll be looking to when I'm building it up it looks like a piece of the jigsaw is missing. I'm sure most will reveal their purpose in time, but any up front id-ing from people here would be very handy (have already sussed fairing brackets, exhaust gaskets and rad hose clips, but am wondering especially where those two springs go and what the black plastic thingy is next to them, and what the wheel bearing spacer shaped thing is, that doesn't seem to be wheel bearing spacer as all those spaces are already occupied with spacers...
It looks like most of the fasteners - except for 5 odd ones - are the genuine items, which is faintly reassuring.
https://ibb.co/SnQFmRV
Last edited by SeanW on Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Newbie
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:13 am
Re: New project
This is as far as got with initial reassembly / seeing what's broken / missing
Cosmetically very doggy in places, but the wheels turn, the brakes work, the steering steers and the suspension seems to work, though not sure there's a whole lot of damping left at either end. Someone seems to have half rubbed down the tank ready for a respray, but it's dent free
Rear brake light switch not meant to stick out like that I assume ?
https://ibb.co/5LVZd7m
One disappointment was after removing inches of caked on road cack/2 stroke oil on its underbelly, I discovered a pretty substantial crack in one of the frame's rear engine mounts. Unexpectedly the spacer turned out not to be missing when I found the relevant mounting bolt, so I'm guessing this is just some kind of vibration thing? Is this a known fault? And are there recommendations for ally welders who could put this right with a properly strong repair?
Cosmetically very doggy in places, but the wheels turn, the brakes work, the steering steers and the suspension seems to work, though not sure there's a whole lot of damping left at either end. Someone seems to have half rubbed down the tank ready for a respray, but it's dent free
Rear brake light switch not meant to stick out like that I assume ?
https://ibb.co/5LVZd7m
One disappointment was after removing inches of caked on road cack/2 stroke oil on its underbelly, I discovered a pretty substantial crack in one of the frame's rear engine mounts. Unexpectedly the spacer turned out not to be missing when I found the relevant mounting bolt, so I'm guessing this is just some kind of vibration thing? Is this a known fault? And are there recommendations for ally welders who could put this right with a properly strong repair?
Last edited by SeanW on Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- 500bernie
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 3398
- Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:22 am
- Location: Teesside
Re: New project
Hi Sean,
The bottom engine mount failing is a common enought fault, due to it not being shimmed up correctly when it was tightened up.
A job for a welder.
Cheers
Bernie
The bottom engine mount failing is a common enought fault, due to it not being shimmed up correctly when it was tightened up.
A job for a welder.
Cheers
Bernie
Firecracker Red and Grey C3 300
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- Oil Injector
- Posts: 706
- Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:59 pm
Re: New project
have a go at the parts pic.....
from top left.. to right
pillion seat tab holder (bar with two flats)
drilled bits, brackets for seat mechanism, used as washers on underside of top frame rails.
bottom fairing bracker (big forked one)
next one and far right, fairing to frame brackets
middle second row down, tank mount, bolt un underside of frame, 5mm nuts fitted
LH side wire one is overflow pipe router, bottom side of frame
don't know, then plastic choke lever ?? seat lock springs, then indicator wire clips (topf of frame under seat unit
Lots of bolts
bottom RH corner, rear sprocket carrier bearing spacer.
from top left.. to right
pillion seat tab holder (bar with two flats)
drilled bits, brackets for seat mechanism, used as washers on underside of top frame rails.
bottom fairing bracker (big forked one)
next one and far right, fairing to frame brackets
middle second row down, tank mount, bolt un underside of frame, 5mm nuts fitted
LH side wire one is overflow pipe router, bottom side of frame
don't know, then plastic choke lever ?? seat lock springs, then indicator wire clips (topf of frame under seat unit
Lots of bolts
bottom RH corner, rear sprocket carrier bearing spacer.
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- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1328
- Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:25 am
- Location: Solihull
Re: New project
Bottom bolt on LHS is the rider seat fixing that goes through the rear of the tank as well. 5 fixings above from memory are look familiar and may be for attaching the pillion casting bracket to frame or the pillion seat release mechanism brackets.
The 2 fixings in the middle with the "conical" cup spacer washer thingys are for attaching the upper fairing to the side brackets. The chromed 6mm hex hd screws are for attaching the fairing side brackets to the frame.
The fixings with the captive penny washers are generally for attaching the rear mudguard, rear and forwards sections to the frame. I think these are normally a black passivate of sorts. Similarly for fixings the rear number plate top hat bracket to the rear mudguard. The tail piece fixings are similar but from memory may be a different finish i.e. bright. You might be best to check the parts fiche here as there are 2 different lengths and I think maybe 2 different finishes for the above.
The bit of rubber above with the metal look is the leftovers of either a battery strap or toolkit strap.
The 2 fixings in the middle with the "conical" cup spacer washer thingys are for attaching the upper fairing to the side brackets. The chromed 6mm hex hd screws are for attaching the fairing side brackets to the frame.
The fixings with the captive penny washers are generally for attaching the rear mudguard, rear and forwards sections to the frame. I think these are normally a black passivate of sorts. Similarly for fixings the rear number plate top hat bracket to the rear mudguard. The tail piece fixings are similar but from memory may be a different finish i.e. bright. You might be best to check the parts fiche here as there are 2 different lengths and I think maybe 2 different finishes for the above.
The bit of rubber above with the metal look is the leftovers of either a battery strap or toolkit strap.
GWB KR1s C2 - Now gone
GWB KR1 - YES IT'S DONE!
ZXR400L PROJECT
AND NO S****Y H****A'S
Usque Ad Mortem Bibendum
GWB KR1 - YES IT'S DONE!
ZXR400L PROJECT
AND NO S****Y H****A'S
Usque Ad Mortem Bibendum
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- Newbie
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:13 am
Re: New project
Brilliant - thanks a lot gents!
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- Heavy Smoker
- Posts: 474
- Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 12:09 am
- Location: Kingdom of the Netherlands
Re: New project
Also check the forward/upper engine mounts very closely for cracks. While my lower/rear mount was OK, the upper RH mount had a crack which was only visible after I had the frame blasted. KHI "forgot" to fit shims here to take up the space between frame and engine- in my case the clearance is no less than 4 mm!!!
"Mine is a long and sad tale", said the mouse.
"Indeed it is", said Alice, looking at the mouse's tail.
"Indeed it is", said Alice, looking at the mouse's tail.
- Garry
- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1436
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:01 pm
- Location: E.Midlands
Re: New project
Just my thoughts on the cracked engine mounts problem
I think KHI must have built in engineering tolerances when designing the bike
The problem is owners who do not use a torque wrench when putting an engine back in - they just do bolts
up gorilla tight stressing the mounts and then - SNAP
Never used shims - only a torque wrench and never any problems
I think KHI must have built in engineering tolerances when designing the bike
The problem is owners who do not use a torque wrench when putting an engine back in - they just do bolts
up gorilla tight stressing the mounts and then - SNAP
Never used shims - only a torque wrench and never any problems
Smokings Good For You
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- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1328
- Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:25 am
- Location: Solihull
Re: New project
When I built my bike I had half a dozen or so of the bottom spacer and noticed of they varied a fair bit in in width. I just used the widest one i had. It looks like they were made with a "general tolerance" and not anything particularly precision.
GWB KR1s C2 - Now gone
GWB KR1 - YES IT'S DONE!
ZXR400L PROJECT
AND NO S****Y H****A'S
Usque Ad Mortem Bibendum
GWB KR1 - YES IT'S DONE!
ZXR400L PROJECT
AND NO S****Y H****A'S
Usque Ad Mortem Bibendum