kips valves stay open

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:26 pm

Hi,

just took my bike for a 25mile ride to work, first ride after fitting a new top end. On the return journey, it wouldn't pull from low revs anymore (4000-5000) and was reluctant to reach even 7000rpm. When it finally reached 9000rpm it didn't run smooth either.

I noticed that the kips valves once they had opened stayed open regardless of the actual rpm. As I stopped and switched off the ignition and then on again, the valves opened and closed again, as they're supposed to do. But on the move they won't close once they're open. Back home I checked the valves and cables, but everything runs free, with the cables removed from the motor it's no problem moving them by hand.

What I also observed during my return journey: the needle of the temp gauge was moving rather wildly between cold and normal running temperature, not all the time but rather often. With just the ignition 'on' and the engine not running everything was/is fine.

Could all this be a sign that the CDI is about to blow? Before I had the trouble with my spark plug helicoil I had just fitted a new stator (approx 200km ago). Next item I'm about to check is the voltage on the battery while running, perhaps the regulator is about to fry the CDI?

Would be very grateful for any help/advice.

thanks,
Charles

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:26 am

Sounds like something is going on the electrical front. Best bet is to sit there with a multimeter and check everything as per the manual. Trouble is that it sounds like it failing under load ATM which makes it a PITA to find.

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:34 am

the-elf wrote:Sounds like something is going on the electrical front. Best bet is to sit there with a multimeter and check everything as per the manual.

But starting with checking the voltage over the battery while running, is ok? If that's ok I wanted to take my spare CDI and try how the valves behave.

cheers,
Charles

rgvlee · Post by **rgvlee** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:45 am

I wouldn't put a spare working CDI in until you tested the reg/rect. If it is anything like mine, I was able to start her up and test everything with a stuffed CDI. I had issues the the CDI, powervalve motor and temp gauge, all caused by the reg/rect blowing the CDI.

Bring the revs up at idle, if they start going skyward past 15V replace the reg/rect, preferably with a something better than the shit these bikes come with.

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:48 am

rgvlee wrote:I wouldn't put a spare working CDI in until you tested the reg/rect.

Agree, first I will test the regulator and if the values I measure are ok, I will swap the CDI. Don't want to fry my spare CDI.

thanks,
Charles

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 5:47 pm

So, just to be sure I didn't make a mistake fitting the KIPS-cables, here's a pic of them:

Checked with the manual, seems to be fitted correctly. If I switch the ignition on, they move from close to open and back again.

Now upon starting the engine and revving past 8000rpm the valves open but don't close again. This looks then like this:

Even when I switch the ignition off and back on again, nothing happens the KIPS-motor doesn't turn, valves stay open.

Checked the regulator as well, with some strange results:
At 1000rpm the voltage at the battery is 14.0V
From 2000rpm onward the voltage drops to 13.0V

The engine fires up first kick, revs well (till the valves open and don't close again). When I keep the revs under 8000rpm, it runs sweet.

Any advice? Should I try a different CDI, as I now know it won't get fried by the regulator?

thanks,
Charles

scooble · Post by **scooble** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 6:00 pm

I had similar problems with the pv motor getting out of sync. I ran a current to the pv motor like it says in the manual, i think what you do is disconnect the cdi cable, but connect two terminals on the triangular plug (cant't remember which wires) to the battery. The pv motor should continually turn one way, and the other if the connections are reversed. Re connect the triangle plug and the cdi plug, switch on, and the pv (should) cycle as normal. 13 to 14v sound within the ballpark whilst running

kwackman12 · Post by **kwackman12** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:46 pm

Bit of a job to tell from the picture Charles, but do the cables have a bit of "slack" in them? Also if you need a new motor let me know

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:50 pm

Hi Gary,

yes they do have a bit of slack. Didn't want to post up pics that are too large.
Will change them for some larger ones now.

Just measured the resistance of the different connectors as listed in the handbook, they're all ok.

Thanks for the offer on the motor, but I luckily got a spare one myself

thanks,
Charles

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:15 pm

Hi scooble,

scooble wrote: I ran a current to the pv motor like it says in the manual, i think what you do is disconnect the cdi cable, but connect two terminals on the triangular plug (cant't remember which wires) to the battery. The pv motor should continually turn one way, and the other if the connections are reversed. Re connect the triangle plug and the cdi plug, switch on, and the pv (should) cycle as normal. 13 to 14v sound within the ballpark whilst running

thanks for your help. I took the kips-motor out and connected the terminals of the other connector (with the two terminals, not of the triangular one) with the battery. As you wrote the motor then runs continually one way or the other. Will check tomorrow on how the pv react now.

scooble wrote: 13 to 14v sound within the ballpark whilst running

yes, but shouldn't voltage rise with the rpms, mine does the opposite

Can't explain why.....

thanks, Charles

JanBros · Post by **JanBros** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 11:52 pm

at idle, the engine doesn't produce much voltage. if for example your battery is dead, at idle there isn't enough electrical power produced to keep your headlight burning brightly or make the turn-signals blink. at that point the regulator doesn't kick in so it's possible it reads 14V but doesn't have enough amp's.

at higher rev's (even 2-3000 rpm) , the electrical power produced goes skyhigh (before the rec/reg it goes up to 50-60V) and then the rectifier does his work. might be yours does his work too good and shut's off at 13V which is a bit low (better would be 14.5V), but is more then enough for a KR 'cause you don't need battery-power for a starterengine.

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Wed Jun 03, 2009 6:28 pm

Scooble's solution worked perfectly: took the bike out for a 20km ride and the valvesoperation was faultless. Thanks very much all =D> =D>

Still don't feel at ease on the bike, always wondering what's going happen the next few seconds.....

cheers,
Charles