Correct KIPS setup

raw1981 · Post by **raw1981** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:34 pm

Hi there,

final part of engine rebuild, the KIPS valves and head need to be put on.

I'm having some trouble setting up the kips valves. I've had a good look in the barrels and I can see the ports the valves link up to. Only problem is once the valves are seated in the barrels, the pullies don't line up. There is only one way to put the pullies on as there is a flat bit on the KIPS valves themselves that line up with the bolt hole. when they are put on, I can't get the linkages to fit.

Looked at the manual, but it doesn't show how the valves are supposed to be set up.

anyone feel like taking a picture of their cylinder head so i can see which pully goes where?

Better yet, anyone got any advice on how to get them set up correctly?

When stripping the engine, one valve snapped off, so i bought a genuine kwak replacement, but the hole in that one is much bigger than the rest. Is this going to cause problems?

Cheers

Rick

salty · Post by **salty** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:01 pm

In the current issue of classic motorcycle mechanics (In WH Smiths now) there is an article by Stan Stephens on setting up the KIPS valves with a good picture of the set up - well worth a read.

http://www.classicmechanics.com/Current-Issue/

The featured engine is un-naturaly clean!

Salty

KR-1R · Post by **KR-1R** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:23 pm

Once the valves are basically set correct to tweak the rod lengths to allow the holes in the valves to match the tunnels in the barrels correctly - ideally the minor alignment issues when the valves are in the OPEN position

the holes in the KR-1S valves are slightly bigger
you can use a needle file and dremel to enlarge the other B model KIPS to match the C KIPS
you can also remove the vertical bridge either side (downstream)of the KIPS to smooth the flow of the main exhaust port

JanBros · Post by **JanBros** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:09 am

pictures in the manual show clearly how they have to be mounted.

and the flat side on the kips-valve has to point to the head off the screw that holds it.

ScottaKR · Post by **ScottaKR** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:42 am

The other thing to take note of is that the outer arms are specific to each side, which makes it easy to have them mis-aligned without realising.

375 · Post by **375** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:39 pm

A good post,
Alimorg it would be a good one for the kr kive section.?

raw1981 · Post by **raw1981** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:52 pm

That article is exactly what I need!

There's a pic showing which way round they go.

Now, once I get the flat side of the valves lined up with the pulleys, and attach the con rods, the valves are not quite lined up with the ports. I'm starting to think this may be because one valve is from a later model and as such might have had different alignment.

This may mean a £90 bill for three more valves. We'll see tonight.

Cheers guys.

KR-1R · Post by **KR-1R** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 9:15 pm

adjust the turnbuckle lengths (half turns on ball rod ends) to tune alignment issues of holes to port passages

just enlarge the 3 KIPs holes to match the odd KR-1S valve

have a look in here...
see RC46's posting in...
http://kr-1s.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10291

Formula III (F3 valves)...
http://kr-1s.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=37475

raw1981 · Post by **raw1981** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:36 pm

OK, I followed the picture and now have the valves all seated and lined up correctly. I think I might have had the end pulleys on the wrong end which was screwing everything up.

I'm keen to see if my engine rebuild has been a success so I'm getting it mounted and connected up and will see how it runs. Then I'll have a go at the valves with a dremel (and buy a dremel) and see if there's any difference.

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