
Final KR Based Race Bike Project
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- JanBros
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
why did you go for flat tops ?
My ultimate goal is to die young as late as possible !
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
Ports open faster with no masking
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
That is just awesome! very very impressedLuders wrote:
Cheers
Al
"A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools. " - Douglas Adams
- JanBros
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
have you read the entire RSA topics on pitlane ?Luders wrote:Ports open faster with no masking
Frits/Jan always go for domed piston's, because of the Coanda effect. This effect makes airflow stick to round surfaces, following it. They say it's important for piston-cooling, as the fresh charge coming through the transfers is THE most important factor for piston cooling.
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
I liked the look of them
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
=D> =D> =D>
Kr1s C1 zeus blue
Kr1s c2 black green
ZXR400 SP
ZXR250A
Kr1s c2 black green
ZXR400 SP
ZXR250A
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
Hopefully this explains to cooling system better for you Dan.
Water is pumped through the engine by the EWP. It emerges from the two outlets in the cylinder head, which feed a T-piece 2 into 1 made of ally, where there is provision to mount a temperature sensor. This hose then feeds into the thermostat housing where it will hit the smaller by-pass hose and route the water back to the pump until the water reaches a temperature of 56 degrees C, where it is then free to flow into the top hose of the radiator.

That left radiator tank is baffled mid way, so the water passed through only the top half of the radiator on it's first pass, then travels down the right tank to flow back across the bottom half of the radiator. This is to increase cooling efficiency.
Once it reaches the bottom hose, it just flows along the ally transfer pipe, back to the EWP, where the cycle starts all over again.
Please ignore the bottom rad bracket, I've not made it yet, this is just a standard one hold it in some kind of position for demonstration purposes only

Here it is again explained with a sketch.

Water is pumped through the engine by the EWP. It emerges from the two outlets in the cylinder head, which feed a T-piece 2 into 1 made of ally, where there is provision to mount a temperature sensor. This hose then feeds into the thermostat housing where it will hit the smaller by-pass hose and route the water back to the pump until the water reaches a temperature of 56 degrees C, where it is then free to flow into the top hose of the radiator.

That left radiator tank is baffled mid way, so the water passed through only the top half of the radiator on it's first pass, then travels down the right tank to flow back across the bottom half of the radiator. This is to increase cooling efficiency.
Once it reaches the bottom hose, it just flows along the ally transfer pipe, back to the EWP, where the cycle starts all over again.
Please ignore the bottom rad bracket, I've not made it yet, this is just a standard one hold it in some kind of position for demonstration purposes only


Here it is again explained with a sketch.

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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
I wouldn't put the temp sensor there. If your cooling system is as good as you expect it to be - and I'm sure it will - you will only know the temperature of the left cylinder, not the right one. If the right one is overheating, your cooling system might be so good that you will never know untill it' s too late.
you should use one temp sensor after the T , or use 2 - one for each cylinder - before the T. I'd go for the 2nd.
you should use one temp sensor after the T , or use 2 - one for each cylinder - before the T. I'd go for the 2nd.
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
It's just an indication of the water temp Jan, I'm fitted EGT sensors to each exhaust to give me a better idea of individual temperatures. I'll fine tune any differences out, so they should be fairly well balanced from a heat perspective.
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
I was thinking more like when the right one is developing a problem casing it to overheat (like an airleak causing it to run lean) , you might not notice itLuders wrote:I'll fine tune any differences out, so they should be fairly well balanced from a heat perspective.

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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
The EGT sensors will tell me that instantly. If I'm relying on the water temp, it will be a delayed reading and probably too late. If I have the sensor after the pipes join, I only get an aggregate reading from both cylinders, so don't know if one side is running hotter than the other. As I have it, there was space to stick a sensor where I did and I'm not relying on ot to warn me of issues, it's just an indication of how the operating temp is and how efficient the cooling system is running.
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
The thermostat will control the water temp, Jan Thiel said to have an excess of cooling and use a thermostat to stabillise the temps.Getting the thermostat to contstantly cycle is the go. I can't see major differences in individual cylinder temps. After the T would probably be a better idea though.JanBros wrote:I wouldn't put the temp sensor there. If your cooling system is as good as you expect it to be - and I'm sure it will - you will only know the temperature of the left cylinder, not the right one. If the right one is overheating, your cooling system might be so good that you will never know untill it' s too late.
you should use one temp sensor after the T , or use 2 - one for each cylinder - before the T. I'd go for the 2nd.
crochet & croquet
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Re: Final KR Based Race Bike Project
So the EGT sensors have arrived this morning.
I have left and right temp sensors, a tacho, including 2 stage shift light, water temp sensor and warning light and a volt meter on the far right, with switches for all three devices. I have an engine run switch on the left bar to control the power to the CDI and EWP.

I have left and right temp sensors, a tacho, including 2 stage shift light, water temp sensor and warning light and a volt meter on the far right, with switches for all three devices. I have an engine run switch on the left bar to control the power to the CDI and EWP.

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