KR-1S.co.uk Forum

luggage hooks original colour was black not olive

Hi Phil,
This is what a standard one looks like...


Is that a securing screw in the throttle body to stop it spinning?

ah right thanks Martin, they were passivated coating?
Bernie- mmm, your clutch bracket is quite different. I think I had another with the bike, will take a look tomorrow. I think I see the screw you're talking about on the throttle housing. I'm not sure, not really investigated it. There's some movement in the throttle housing, not enough to notice when riding. Do you think the front m/c looks std? I looked at the ZXR and it very similar with the exception it's missing the small female thread in the top by the clamp. I guess that could be an alternative method of mounting a reservoir support
I'm mostly done with it now, looks dry tomorrow, maybe an MOT!

Hi Phil,
I am ashamed to say, I have not seen my master cylinder for a couple of years (since I stripped the bike)
My R/H unit does not have the additional fixing yours has...

Cheers
Bernie

Well finally, MOT'd on monday. No issues, not that I expected many with new tyre and chain etc.
front brakes are going to need a strip clean and probably a paint at the same time
Clutch lever I have is the stock one, with the switch in it.
So, are the pattern brake levers ok or do i need a genuine one? then I can re fit the original clutch lever assembly

Hello followers/advisors! Sorry it's been a while!
Used bike a few times this year, can't say it's been a lot, haven't really had much requirement for bikes this year as no longer commute by bike, which made the good part of the miles I did previously. In fact only used the Mille, KR1-S and NC30 this year so far.
Anyway it's run ok, haven't had any real issues but still not happy with the squish and the fact that I ran two base gaskets to keep it 'safe'. Can't say it feels as peaky as it should
so.. . .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/kawasaki-kr1- ... true&rt=nc
this should be at home when I get back. seems unusually undamaged in the combustion area, tho may need a bit of fettling on the sealing surface. Looks better than the one I have, just hope the bugger is flat!
Plan to do the FPV [flat plate volume] test as a comparison with the one I have fitted, then fit and check squish again.
Those bearings I fitted in place of the KIPS seals are spitting oil out so going to replace them with rubber seals, in 8x14x5
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400782601658? ... EBIDX%3AIT
these are a little larger than the 8x14x4 stock ones but are double lipped, I think stock is single lip. Should fit ok. I'll be going to Cradley Kawasaki for the stock bearing/sleevs, as they're 14p each!
92043 CHKM275911 PIN,DOWEL,6.2X8X14 £0.14 ref 920431263
Other than that I fitted the proper clutch lever. BT090's work great, no issues with the 150/60x18 on the back
Will have to see how good this head is when it arrives. . .

here's some pics of the head that just arrived, any comments folks?

nothing to comment, good looking used head.

looks reasonable, possibly a wee bit pitted, hope it will seal properly!
Will get it blasted and cleaned up and then bushes etc in

Well put it all together tonight with some Oilite bushes for the kips valves, used the old head gasket said reused it a couple of times before and hadn't got around to getting a new one. Had to use a 0.15mm home made base gasket with an original one to get the squish above 0.7mm. Started up sounded sweet then noticed it was pissing water out all over the head
So . . . Is this down to reusing an old genuine gasket or is it due to the pitting on the surface of the head. I did the torque head to 25nm in stages before tightening barrels to 22nm too
Any ideas? I suppose reassemble with stock new gasket is the first thing to try
Guys that reuse gaskets, and I understand it's quite common practise, do you use any type of sealant, I didnt. And do you use stock torque settings
To say I'm mighty pissed off is an understatement!

Black h***a bond

Thanks Bernie
Well I had it all apart again today
I smeared some Loctite Copper Silicon Sealant 5920 on the face of the head, and rubbed it in, to seal the pitting in the gasket face, then used a new genuine HG. Ran it up and no leaks, left it running for 30 mins, nothing, took it for a run for about 3 miles, nothing. So looks like it's cured.
Seems to run ok, doesn't feel 'sharp' tho like I think it should. KIPS are all working, but how do you know if they are opening at higher speed? Anyone know what rpm they should open up?

It's around 7500 on a stock ignition. If you rev the bike past this you should see them working. Also might be worth checking you have them the right way round.

thanks, yes definitely the right way around, the flats face the countersink of the screws don't they
will give that a try, did some research tho and will be giving the pipes a clean out too!

Yes that's the correct way round. I know someone on here (a close mate) who had done nearly a full track day at Cadwell with his PV motor disconnected, complaining about power all day. Took the tank off to see what was up and found the issue