Final KR Based Race Bike Project
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Bertie_Mollie
- Premix Junkie
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- Location: Solihull
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fred
- Oil Injector
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- Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2008 5:42 pm
- Location: retford n,nott`s working in cotswolds
- Contact:
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Top-shaggy
- Premix Junkie
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- Location: Derbyshire
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Luders
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 3926
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:29 am
- Location: Oxfordshire
Thanks guys, hope it was useful to some of you wanting to have a go at making some of your own components. It's a bit time consuming when you have to make a mould and waiting for stuff to dry etc, but it's fairly straight forward.
I probably won't get much done this weekend, going to see my fabricator and leave the bits with him to make the fuel cell and I want a reinforcement tube making. Hope to make a start on the fuel tank mould soon.
I probably won't get much done this weekend, going to see my fabricator and leave the bits with him to make the fuel cell and I want a reinforcement tube making. Hope to make a start on the fuel tank mould soon.
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Luders
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 3926
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:29 am
- Location: Oxfordshire
Oh my, that's very amature and look at the heater hose being used as an air feed. The ridges in that stuff would really disturb the air flow, when what you need is cold calm air going in to your airbox 
Anyway, back to the project. I've taken the particulars over to my fabricator, so he can make the fuel cell in his own time. This leaves me to make a start on the fibreglassing.
From the beat up old tank I have been using, apply the layer of release agent (you can see it better in the picture below) and the usual gel coat and fibreglass steps are followed as previously documented.
Because of the shape of the tank, the only way to remove the mould from the plug, is to cut it straight (or as close as you can
) down the middle with your dremel.
From the inside, tape the two halfs together using gaffa tape and then from the outside apply fibreglass strips to make the join more permanant.
Once dry remove the tape and fill the seam with plasticine and your mould is now ready to have the release agent applied.
Anyway, back to the project. I've taken the particulars over to my fabricator, so he can make the fuel cell in his own time. This leaves me to make a start on the fibreglassing.
From the beat up old tank I have been using, apply the layer of release agent (you can see it better in the picture below) and the usual gel coat and fibreglass steps are followed as previously documented.
Because of the shape of the tank, the only way to remove the mould from the plug, is to cut it straight (or as close as you can
) down the middle with your dremel.From the inside, tape the two halfs together using gaffa tape and then from the outside apply fibreglass strips to make the join more permanant.
Once dry remove the tape and fill the seam with plasticine and your mould is now ready to have the release agent applied.
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Luders
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 3926
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:29 am
- Location: Oxfordshire
Okay, I've finished my weight analysis on the following:
My TZ front spindle weight = 326g
Standard front spindle weight = 480g
My modified rear spindle = 475g
Standard rear spindle weight = 581g
My RGV swingarm pivot bolt = 421g (thanks salty)
Standard swingarm pivot bolt= 714g
Total before = 1775g
Total after = 1222g
Total saving = 553g
My TZ front spindle weight = 326g
Standard front spindle weight = 480g
My modified rear spindle = 475g
Standard rear spindle weight = 581g
My RGV swingarm pivot bolt = 421g (thanks salty)
Standard swingarm pivot bolt= 714g
Total before = 1775g
Total after = 1222g
Total saving = 553g
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KFOR
- Heavy Smoker
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- Location: Somerset
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dave32
- Heavy Smoker
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:15 pm
What year TZ parts are you using Ben?
The wheel spindle (front) went up in diameter in either 92 or 93,also the rim size went up.
if your running 4DP brakes i would either go for Ferodo carbon if you like lots of feel and control,like when you trail brake into a corner or if you just want BITE and power then the EBC full sintered race pads do the job
Gonna take some getting used to after using road going brakes,the limiting factor i found was trying to downchange fast enough to keep up with the deceleration,really noticeable at mallory hairipn when you go from 4th/5th to 1st
can you run slicks in the class or only treaded?
If treaded i would recommend KR364's as they work well even when at low temps or in the damp/wet.
Looking good by the way
The wheel spindle (front) went up in diameter in either 92 or 93,also the rim size went up.
if your running 4DP brakes i would either go for Ferodo carbon if you like lots of feel and control,like when you trail brake into a corner or if you just want BITE and power then the EBC full sintered race pads do the job
Gonna take some getting used to after using road going brakes,the limiting factor i found was trying to downchange fast enough to keep up with the deceleration,really noticeable at mallory hairipn when you go from 4th/5th to 1st
can you run slicks in the class or only treaded?
If treaded i would recommend KR364's as they work well even when at low temps or in the damp/wet.
Looking good by the way
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Luders
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 3926
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:29 am
- Location: Oxfordshire
To be honest, I'm not so keen on the KR364's in the dry Dave.
I've used them a fair bit in the past and I've found that dry treaded tyres have moved on a long way.
I have a pair which will go on the bike if the track is damp or the conditions are changeable and I think there may be a shower during the race.
The Pirelli Supercorsa's are about the best treaded race tyre for the dry you can get at the moment in a 160 and I run an SC1 & SC2 combination with the compounds.
The front end is somewhere around '94 and I believe the change you speak about were '92.
I don't think I've mentioned the brakes before, but they too match the forks. They are the Nissin calipers which were fitted to the likes of the 4DP.
I'll be also be using a Nissin radial master cylinder to compliment the spec I'm building to
I've used them a fair bit in the past and I've found that dry treaded tyres have moved on a long way.
I have a pair which will go on the bike if the track is damp or the conditions are changeable and I think there may be a shower during the race.
The Pirelli Supercorsa's are about the best treaded race tyre for the dry you can get at the moment in a 160 and I run an SC1 & SC2 combination with the compounds.
The front end is somewhere around '94 and I believe the change you speak about were '92.
I don't think I've mentioned the brakes before, but they too match the forks. They are the Nissin calipers which were fitted to the likes of the 4DP.
I'll be also be using a Nissin radial master cylinder to compliment the spec I'm building to