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Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 7:47 am
by daz680
ScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here?
with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should do
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:12 am
by ScottaKR
daz680 wrote:ScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here?
with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should do
But wouldn't that leave the possibility that the bearings could be offset to one side in the wheel when fitting?
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:42 am
by daz680
ScottaKR wrote:daz680 wrote:ScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here?
with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should do
But wouldn't that leave the possibility that the bearings could be offset to one side in the wheel when fitting?
No, the left hand bearing will sit against the cirlip that is beind the speedo drive
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:02 am
by headcoats
That circlip just holds part of the drive for the speedo gear.
The inside of the speedo gear has a tube which butts up against the inner race of the wheel bearing.
You could run it without the circlip,which you shouldn't but you could
Getting complicated
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:39 am
by daz680
exactly, so if the speedo drive is all fitted correctly then the bearing will sit against it on the inner race and the bearings will be spaced correctly by a 2mm longer tube
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:14 pm
by JanBros
IMHO : Scotty's solution is the only correct one.
if you don't space the bearing, the hole wheel could move 1mm.
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 10:30 pm
by john-b
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1mm-Stainless ... 4aae9abebe
Im sure they will make you what you want. And no i dont want to go for a ride
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 10:51 pm
by will77
Thanks very much guys, have fitted wheel today with 1s shaft and 10mm bearing and all feels tight without spacers, I've decided to do both options of shim/spacer and Dazs idea and try both, I will let you know when up and rolling. Really glad I'm on this forum with all the help
Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 5:47 pm
by JanBros
whatever you do, make sure the wheel side with the circlip has a 1mm spacer. this is the only thing that stops the wheel going left-right. you may not be able to move the wheel by hand because the bearring isn't a loose fit, but you never know what can happen when fully loaded when riding.