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Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 10:59 pm
by streetfighter_danny
JanBros wrote:@ mgtkr1 : RS125 has the chain on the left side, and the shape off the swing arm won't allow the chain to run on the left side (I thinck) :wink:
100% correct jan.the rs swingarm final drive is on the right hand side.ive used a cagiva mito swingarm which is left hand final drive.also just found the cagiva mono shock linkage which i will be using and still will be using the ohlins shock.just ordered some alloy plates bar and tube as i have a plan.keep watching as i will be starting the re-shape next week.

cheers danny

Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 9:13 am
by alimorg
Well done danny, cant wait to see it finished now
Cheers
AL

Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 10:38 am
by TwoStroke Institute
Awesome

Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 11:12 pm
by streetfighter_danny
ive started to mock up the revised rear shock set up using a shock linkage.
pics attached.
Image
Image
Image

Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 10:31 am
by mgtkr1
beefed up with thicker material could work, does the linkage work in this setup? def looks better than the old setup. just be aware of the forces that rear suspension movement generates.good to see you aint gave up at the first hurdle.

Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 12:37 pm
by scooble
do the extra brackets have any effect on the tank and seat position?

Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 3:30 pm
by ScottaKR
scooble wrote:do the extra brackets have any effect on the tank and seat position?
I don't think it will after looking at some of the earlier pics with the tank and subframe attached.

Obviously being a mock up, there's still a lot more to do in making it strong enough to cope with the load, but it's certainly looking a lot more promising than the previous configuration. Definately a step in th eright direction. =D>

Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 3:58 pm
by streetfighter_danny
scooble wrote:do the extra brackets have any effect on the tank and seat position?
the shock mount that ive mocked up dosnt interfere with the subframe.the subframe can still be mounted in the original position which means the tank will still fit in the same position. :)

Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 4:03 pm
by JanBros
not that I want to piss you off again, but why do you keep calling that an öhlins shock ?

Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 4:04 pm
by streetfighter_danny
mgtkr1 wrote:beefed up with thicker material could work, does the linkage work in this setup? def looks better than the old setup. just be aware of the forces that rear suspension movement generates.good to see you aint gave up at the first hurdle.
ive used 6mm alloy plate and 25mm solid box section.plates bolted to the frame with m8 bolts in 3 places either side using the original aprilia engine head mounts.box secured with 2 m10 bolts.shock mount is 4mm angle secured to box with 4 m6 bolts tapped through the box section and i will use long enough bolts so i can put some nyloc nuts for extra security.

thinking of strengthening using the mount below ( can see behind the shock) making some plates and attaching to the box.

at the moment it seems very strong and the shock and linkage works very well.

Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 4:08 pm
by streetfighter_danny
JanBros wrote:not that I want to piss you off again, but why do you keep calling that an öhlins shock ?
well i bought the shock off a guy up the road from me.came off a accident damaged 2007 cbr 1000 that had a front ender.the guy said its a showa shock with an ohlins spring.so its a bit of a mixed one. :)

Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:15 pm
by rgv250geoff
streetfighter_danny wrote: ive used 6mm alloy plate and 25mm solid box section.

at the moment it seems very strong and the shock and linkage works very well.
Where do you buy your solid box section from Danny? :?

Have you tried taking the spring off the shock and trying the swinging arm through it'd full range of movement? From your photo's, I can't see where your dog bones are connected to the frame, but it's worth checking the full range.

Geoff (Slim) :)

Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 12:10 am
by JanBros
rgv250geoff wrote: Have you tried taking the spring off the shock and trying the swinging arm through it'd full range of movement? From your photo's, I can't see where your dog bones are connected to the frame, but it's worth checking the full range.

Geoff (Slim) :)
I would to. wheel travel should be between 10 - 12 cm on full range off the shock.

and I would use M8's in stead off M6's :wink:

Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 8:34 am
by streetfighter_danny
rgv250geoff wrote:
streetfighter_danny wrote: ive used 6mm alloy plate and 25mm solid box section.

at the moment it seems very strong and the shock and linkage works very well.
Where do you buy your solid box section from Danny? :?

Have you tried taking the spring off the shock and trying the swinging arm through it'd full range of movement? From your photo's, I can't see where your dog bones are connected to the frame, but it's worth checking the full range.

Geoff (Slim) :)
i buy all my alloy from ebay,get a good price on some off cuts.the alloy box section is 25mm square and was 300mm long cost me just over £8 posted.
ive not tried taking the spring off,but now youve mentioned it i will go ahead with that idea to check full range of shock movement.last thing i want is anything binding.the bottom dogbone is connected to the frame mount where the original aprilia dog bone mounted.for some strange reason it lined up perfectly..which was great,no need for any messing about.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALUMINIUM-SQUARE- ... 62a4e5ebay link for box section.


danny.

danny.

Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 8:38 am
by streetfighter_danny
JanBros wrote:
rgv250geoff wrote: Have you tried taking the spring off the shock and trying the swinging arm through it'd full range of movement? From your photo's, I can't see where your dog bones are connected to the frame, but it's worth checking the full range.

Geoff (Slim) :)
I would to. wheel travel should be between 10 - 12 cm on full range off the shock.

and I would use M8's in stead off M6's :wink:
hi jan,i will check the travel of the shock and i can replace the m6 bolts with m8s.will drill and re-tap the threads and use long enough bolts so i can put m8 nyloc nuts on aswell for extra strength.

danny.