KR-1S.co.uk Forum

The servo was struggling to turn the valves, and with all the pulleys stripped they felt "tight" to turn by hand (only just with fingertips). Read some threads on here about the problem and knowing the engine's just been re-built before I bought it decided it's likely to be a cheapo head gasket. So a strip down before I'd planned for it and without any garage space and yep, head gasket! Got a new one from Corby on the way..





You can see around the valve hole where it's been rubbing, why can't they just make them the right size????



Need more space!!!!

It has nothing to do with the head gasket, it's how it's assembled

just join in and buy one of these

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10450

Luders wrote:It has nothing to do with the head gasket, it's how it's assembled

All 4 valves equally tight, slacken all the head bolts a half turn and the valves started to free off. Another half turn, they all free off. The head gasket has clear rub marks from the valves. And several posts on here people have posted aftermarket head gaskets have caused tight valves, they've been fine when swapped for a genuine one. If it's the way it's assembled that causes the problem, that's handy news, but why? I know about assembling the head to the barrels first, making sure the valves and barrel chambers are clean (the parts all look like they've been blasted prior to re-building, but it was done by the previous owner) I've looked down into the barrels an it's all very clean, no carbon/sludge, clean as a whistle.

"Yep I had same problem with mine. Genuine head gasket solved it. I got it straight from a Kawasaki dealer no problem."

Btw the mention on one post that aftermarket gaskets appear to be upside down ("up" printed on the wrong way up) seems to be right regarding the gasket I removed, but I haven't seen enough to be sure.

JanBros wrote:just join in and buy one of these

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10450

would love to, think the credit card might flinch a little hard at that!

I would always recommend using a genuine head gasket, but there is no logical reason for a non genuine gasket to cause the power valves to foul, other than incorrect assembly. Gasket upside down, head tightened down on barrels already fixed to cases, warped head etc.

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theres a guy on the bay selling some genuine used one cheap

KR-1R wrote:.
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theres a guy on the bay selling some genuine used one cheap

They'd have to be

New gasket arrived so I compared a bit. Pattern gasket has Kips indents, they protrude 0.8mm from the gasket face and if you fit the gasket as it reads "UP" the indents protrude down into the valve housing..



The genuine gasket, the Kip indents measure 0.3mm from the face and fitted "UP" they protrude upwards toward the head! Totally different really.



Laid the pattern gasket on the head, pushed it down flat by hand and the Kips valve was already rubbing and tightening a bit. Maybe fitted upside down it might not nip the valves but wouldn't waste time trying it to find out. Long post to make a simple point, genuine head gasket is best!(unless you find a pattern one that's identical, but you get the idea!)

Hi did the correct gasket solve it???

I now have the same issue but am wondering if it is because;

a) I put too much oil (did not realise should be grease) at base of valves (maybe 4 droplets).

b) I changed the order of the valves around in the chambers and that they had been matched previously.

I also found it weird that the gasket turns down into the valve chamber thereby rubbing down on the valve itself.

Right got to go and figure this one out.

Cheers