KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Went out on the KR for a little test spin tonight as I've fitted some new silencers.

Found a box full of neutrals and a very loud rumble from the gearbox, anyway managed to get a gear eventually and limp home less than a mile luckily.

Drained the gear box oil and it's very metallic so I'm guessing one of my gearbox bearing has given up the ghost.

Won't know if it's the clutch side or chain side till I get the gearbox out but my main question is can the bearings be changed without splitting the cases? And just accessing from behind the clutch? Obviously the other one is removed from the gearbox casing at the other side ok with it being fully removable.

Any other pointers have I diagnosed this right? Worried with the difficulty selecting gears it could have damaged further like drum and selectors.

Thanks in advance.

you need to take apart the engine right side to take out the gearbox, so that should answer your question about which side

Before you go into that side it might be worth having a look in the selector casing on the left side of the engine. I got similar lumpy/horrid gearchange on a ride out, got it home and found the bolt that holds the selector drum end plate had come loose and was catching the shift arm. What I though was going to be an gearbox strip was a half hour fix.

Hope it turns out to be something simple for yours...

Thanks for the help guys! Turned out the funky gear change was the selector drum, very loose! So thanks bozbridge.

The horrible rattle was coming from the fly wheel, it was loose looks like some muppet had tried to lock-tite the bolt on in the past and not removed the old gunk so although it seemed tight the fly wheel was loose! Pretty sure it was effecting the timing as seems to run a lot better now, nice and quiet too!

Thrillsnotspills wrote:Thanks for the help guys! Turned out the funky gear change was the selector drum, very loose! So thanks bozbridge.

The horrible rattle was coming from the fly wheel, it was loose looks like some muppet had tried to lock-tite the bolt on in the past and not removed the old gunk so although it seemed tight the fly wheel was loose! Pretty sure it was effecting the timing as seems to run a lot better now, nice and quiet too!

Glad the advice helped! I've had a flywheel come off as well, seems they need to be REALLY tight on the KR's, made myself a locking tool so I could make sure it's right up to torque setting. And then one day when you actually DO want it to come off, oh boy..

Yea I had to be creative and make a tool too, do you know what the proper torque rating is for the fly wheel nut? I just did it tight as haha! Luckily I've got a fly wheel puller from a yam 350 I used to have seems to be the same thread if I need it off in the future!

Thrillsnotspills wrote:Yea I had to be creative and make a tool too, do you know what the proper torque rating is for the fly wheel nut? I just did it tight as haha! Luckily I've got a fly wheel puller from a yam 350 I used to have seems to be the same thread if I need it off in the future!

Rotor bolt 72 ft-lb (98 N-m), or just like you say RFT, the 350 puller does fit but you got to take care of the crank end on the KR if you ever have to try and get it off. Sounds like you've had a go at it before though so just the usual job really.

One tip I heard for getting a flywheel off,well on an LC anyway is to get the puller in and put some tension on it then pour a boiling kettle over the flywheel and it's supposed to pop off !!!

I haven't tried this though

Also when you put flywheel on ,put a bit of grinding paste on the taper and fit without woodruff key and spin it to bed the surfaces in then wipe the paste off and refit flywheel

I see what you guys are saying, i just figured if I can have my synchronizes, clutch, gearbox back to brand new why not, you know?