KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Hi I found out that my CDI unit is broken (The wiring to the servo is OK and the servo checks out OK too.) It happened because I drove the thing with a broken battery.

Anyone had this problem too? maybe you know what part will usually be broken? (resistor, elco, transistor?)

I opened up the CDI unit and it turns out to consist of really simple components, except for one IC with a number on it. Maybe I'll buy a new one of that IC.

hacky wrote:Hi I found out that my CDI unit is broken (The wiring to the servo is OK and the servo checks out OK too.) It happened because I drove the thing with a broken battery.

it won't happen because off a broken battery, in the 11 years I have KR's, Ive never had a battery that even can light a 5W bulb

probably your battery is broken because your regulator doesn't do his job any more. if the regulator gives too much volts, then your CDI will burn.


so before you put in a new CDI, make sure your regulator is ok

Jan. How would i test my regulator? It's about time i started to learn a little about electrics.

Cliff,, Be carefull with electrics . You could become the Prince of Darkness.
A title bestowed on joe lucas back in the old Triumph days.

Cliff wrote:Jan. How would i test my regulator? It's about time i started to learn a little about electrics.

it's all in the manual

http://www.kr-1s.co.uk/manual/Part%2015 ... System.pdf

I've had experience with faulty regulators burning CDI's
once I bought one and the CDI didn't work (no ignition, but the kips valves opened and closed when putting on the ignition switch. si I putted my CDI in to test it, and the engine started, ran ok. I let it warm up a little bit, and as soon as I opened the throttle a bit more, the CDI burned instantly. higher rev's mean more volts

Thanks! I almost ordered a new CDI. Nontheless I must say that the manual says that the CDI unit might damage if you drive the bike with a faulty or no battery. I will check the regulator. (see where i could find a second battery to test it. ) I hope it's okay.

Anyone has a spare CDI unit? I'll pay good for it. I wish I knew the japanese that programmed the chip in the unit. All other components on the PCB seem okay.

A battery only costs me 12 euro's. I have one new, but since the new battery the bike runs veeeeery bad. I can hardly get to 70 km/h. Got to find out what's the problem now. Too bad I don't know much about carbs, timing and ignition stuff.

Thanks Jan. Doh!

hacky wrote:Thanks! I almost ordered a new CDI.

Last time I looked a new CDI from big K was about £600. A hell of a lot of cash when you can get a modern programmable unit for less than half of that.

Too bad I don't know much about carbs, timing and ignition stuff.

first thing to check is that you've got a spark at the plug. Just remove the plug, plug it back in and hold the base of it against the frame (using an insulated pair of pliers, unless you're RC46) and slowly kick the motor over. you should see a nice spark.

cool, that's the first thing I'll try today. I guess that if I don't get a spark I'll have to search for it in the ignition coil?

hacky wrote:cool, that's the first thing I'll try today. I guess that if I don't get a spark I'll have to search for it in the ignition coil?

nope, you better start looking for the stator

but I thought the stator was only for charging the battery? I know that little coil besides the stator gives little pulses to the CDI for the timing, but the stator gives sparks directly to the spark plugs?

hacky wrote:but I thought the stator was only for charging the battery? I know that little coil besides the stator gives little pulses to the CDI for the timing, but the stator gives sparks directly to the spark plugs?

There are three coils on the stator that look different to the rest. These are for generating the power for the spark. the others are for charging the battery.

If you don't get a spark from the plugs then its time to get a multimeter and check the resistances on the coil and the stator. Chances are that the stator has gone as they are prone to the insulation breaking down New ones are available from http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/

blimey elf...... they're cheaper than sending your old one to b re-wound...

good link that man...

should make a page for this type of thing.....

stators/rectifiers www.electrexworld.co.uk
cylinder replating www.stanstevens.co.uk
tuning...... www.teamsparrow.co.uk
etc...

I'm sure it's the CDI. The powervalves on't work and I checked the servo and the cables according to the manual.

I found a company in the netherlands that repairs the KR-1s CDI. it's called "carmo electronics" (www.carmo.nl)


Also I'm bidding on a CDI for 5 pounds now. I guess he doesn't sell it for such a little amount, but I will sure give a lot more for it.

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cool! I got it from ebay for only 21 pounds
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