Following on from...

scooble · Post by **scooble** » Sun Sep 21, 2008 9:45 pm

what sort of cost is involved in getting the 636 forks re-valved and re-sprung?

Are they about the right length too?

Red Devil 777 · Post by **Red Devil 777** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:01 pm

scooble wrote:what sort of cost is involved in getting the 636 forks re-valved and re-sprung?

Are they about the right length too?

Sorry missed this.

I'll get them re-valved/re-sprung when it's nearer to being sorted, som at the moment no idea.

The length is about the same as zxr400h so a fraction longer than kr or zxr400l, just drop them through the yokes the same as my other one.

Red Devil 777 · Post by **Red Devil 777** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 3:38 pm

Slow but steady progress on the back end. Swingarm is now in had a bush made from the std KR1 sleve to take it out to 20mm same as the nc30 arm (kr-1s would have been easier)

First top shock mount was made from a vj21 mount and a block of alloy but welded up shite so won't be used

To be honest this one was a bit of guesswork and the next one will be better and made from one piece.

What I intend doing is a block with mount milled out, again bored out to take the solid rod shown but from a 'taller' section so the mount is not angled.

I did weigh up using a higher mount like Jan did with his sv one, but that completely stuffs up the airbox, obviously I'm going to lose some volume here, but I'll be extending it back into the battery box area and also perhaps down where the std shock mount is.

Other progress includes sorting the fairing out, it's pretty much prepped for painting now, after stripping about 8 coats of paint and fixing a load of damaged bits (It had more cracks than a Bangkok brothel

)

Single seat converter is ready for paint and most other bits sourced, but looking for a righthand switchgear rear part and throttle tube ( better stick an ad in the wanted section!)

Need to find an nc30 rear caliper if anyone's got one lurking..........

kr1stars · Post by **kr1stars** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:12 pm

Looking good, I bet you carnt wait to get the bike of those bricks.

alanw · Post by **alanw** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:20 pm

Hard to tell with nothing in final position. How are you going to fix the ally
shaft ? weld ? Why not have the brackets / lugs welded directly to the shaft
& do away with the square block, gets the top of the shock nearer the centre of the ally shaft. Less rotational force. But like I say hard to tell
Hell of a lot of work but I love the s/sided look
I wish you lived closer . We could play nice together

Alan.

Red Devil 777 · Post by **Red Devil 777** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:26 pm

alanw wrote:Hard to tell with nothing in final position. How are you going to fix the ally
shaft ? weld ? Why not have the brackets / lugs welded directly to the shaft
& do away with the square block, gets the top of the shock nearer the centre of the ally shaft. Less rotational force. But like I say hard to tell
Hell of a lot of work but I love the s/sided look
I wish you lived closer . We could play nice together Alan.

Alan, ta very much another pair of eyes has given me an idea. Whatever I do it's going to be welded up.

Bottom mounts are sorted, it's just the top for the shock. Latest idea a quite large section bar welded in behind the main frame spar where it is joined by the subframe. This runs straight across where the shock mount needs to be, mill that section out to take shock, Drill hole straight through from and use a long bolt all the way through (engine mounting bolt is right size (nicely countersunk at either side)

Sommat like this (appologies for the crap line drawing)

I think it'll look better in the metal than my drawing

This would have the advantage of being straight above the shock so in theory it should have less rotational force than even a std mount.

Think my missus would be happy if I lived closer to you, Alan, then I'd not be mithering her to 'come and hold this a minute'

alanw · Post by **alanw** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:41 pm

I'll take a look at my frame after the fitba & see. Alan

alanw · Post by **alanw** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 10:46 pm

Maybe its your draftsmanship that's at fault,

but looks/ sounds over engineered. I'm thinking ? remove all the remnants of the original top mount bracket. Make a pair of new lugs / brackets with halve a hole the dia of the original bar at one end, to be welded to" the original bar, with the shock mount holes at tuther end but with a third hole to use your idea of the solid bar going through. Wouldn't have thought it would need to be solid bar?? heavy gauge ally pipe. & You wouldn't need to weld it to the frame. but to the lugs/brackets...... But hey your the one doing it ,you've got it in front of you!!...... My explanation of this sounds like I'm explaining it to a fool which you are NOT, but It's hard to explain to myself
without "gesticulating" thats a good word ( I think it means chewing with your fly open )
Hope I don't get your mother / wife coming to my door accusing me of "Encouraging our Mark to ruin his motorbike"

.

Good luck, Alan.

JanBros · Post by **JanBros** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 12:02 am

Red Devil 777 wrote:Sommat like this (appologies for the crap line drawing)

my opinion : bad idea

adds way too much weight, and most off all : the shock can't be bolted tightly, 'cause the bar is too strong and can not be pulled tight against the shock.

your first idea is good, just cut off the half off the square bar that's towards the front : it adds nothing but weight

what shock are you going to use ? if I were you, since you designing everything from scrap, I'd use one that's longer than a KR : much more choice in shocks

Red Devil 777 · Post by **Red Devil 777** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:40 pm

Alan, Jan, thanks for the ideas and help always appreciated =D>

Sometimes the obvious way leaves me standing there doing this

Anyway, after idea i) and ii) here's the latest, decided to hack about the other shock mount and it looks something like this now.

Now this can be bolted and welded to the original (cut down) shock mount and also to the new solid bar (which will be also welded in).

Now this is only the rough idea, cos hacking it about has cut half the weld off and anyway I'd sooner have it made from a solid piece but this is the
prototype.

Jan, it's likely to be either a rebuilt kr shock or an r6 one, reason being I want to keep the top mount as low down in the frame as possible so I don't lose too much volume on the airbox (going to get some of it back by making it bigger where the battery box normally is. I've looked at various shocks for it including latest fireblade, various gixxers but all are longer than what I really want to use, I'd rather not mod the bottom linkages if I don't have too.

duncanoakes · Post by **duncanoakes** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:45 pm

just wanted to say how impressed i am at the lengths you are clearly prepared to go to seek perfection, you must be keeping the powder coaters in business,

who does the vapour balsting for you, is this also triple s?

and typically what does it cost

Red Devil 777 · Post by **Red Devil 777** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:55 pm

Duncan, cheers for that. No, vapour blasting is done by a lad up the road from me (Huddersfield), he charges about tenner for a pair of carbs, had a pair of them, nc30 swinger arm few other bits for about 30 quid.

For powdercoating I use Triple S for stuff like engine cases and calipers but for frames and wheels I use a place in Mossley (Gtr M/cr) called Chicago cos they're dead cheap and pretty good.(frame, swinger , wheels, asstd brackets etc blasted and coated, about £90-£100)

duncanoakes · Post by **duncanoakes** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:02 pm

thanks for that,

that suggests triple s are the ones to use for intricate stuff where as the cheaper guys handle the stuff that matter less, wheels etc,

i have recentley bought a 1s with the idea of making it mint, but lack the technical know how, the bikes in reasonable condition but showing its age and the frame and swing arm definatley need stripping and coating, but I'm frightened to strip a working bike with the fear it might not go again when i put it all back together again,

more worryingly is trying to remember where all the bits go once its time to put them all back on a few days later.

Red Devil 777 · Post by **Red Devil 777** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:18 pm

duncanoakes wrote:thanks for that,

that suggests triple s are the ones to use for intricate stuff where as the cheaper guys handle the stuff that matter less, wheels etc,

i have recentley bought a 1s with the idea of making it mint, but lack the technical know how, the bikes in reasonable condition but showing its age and the frame and swing arm definatley need stripping and coating, but I'm frightened to strip a working bike with the fear it might not go again when i put it all back together again,

more worryingly is trying to remember where all the bits go once its time to put them all back on a few days later.

Yep, that's what I'd do, don't get me wrong Triple S will do your frame and wheels and do them bloody well. It's just I know that Chicago will do them well also, so use them on less intricate stuff.

To be honest, the KR is a piece of piss to work on and I don't think you'd have too many problems striping one and rebuilding one. But one idea is to get your hands on a spare frame, get that done and build into it, then you've not a got a large box of bits and a wait for parts. That's what I did with my other (green one) had it back together in no time. Take loads of pics, label everything up and you'll be right. And if you get stuck there'll be plenty of advice/help on here.

duncanoakes · Post by **duncanoakes** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:20 pm

sorry to bombard you but one other query, I'm sure whilst scrolling through the info about the work you've done to this bike you refered to having the bolts replated, who did that work for you as its certainly always the thing to let restoration work down,

i have just put a shiny reconsitioned shock in my bike and then bolted in on with the old dirty bolts,