Hi just been reading through this most excellent piece of work...
I don't want to come across all negative, but how exactly did you make the h***a arm fit in the frame?
If I read this correctly, you chopped off one of the radial bealings on the RHS of the arm?
The NC30 arm is constructed differently with regard to its bearings than the KR.
On the NC there is a big bolt on the RHS of the bike which tensions the bearing assemblies on the RHS. That is why there are two roller bearings, so that the axial play can be reacted. The other end is just a needle roller bearing which floats on a spacer.
The swing arm pivot fits through all this to hold it in the frame.
If you take one of the radial bearings away then the end result will be that the swing arm is free to float along the pivot due to the clearances in the bearing, with the consequent effect on the handling. The old much laughed at "Kawasaki Hinge Frames" of the seventies will be nothing on that....
If you look at this link:
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Mod ... p/SWINGARM
you can see what I mean. (it is for the RC30, but the arm design is the same)
Another point to consider is the suspension linkage, the way the SS arm is designed requires some fancy ratios, so the rear spring and the length are pretty unique. Most modern sports biks have 7~9kg/mm springs. The h***a SS arm uses 15~19kg/mm springs, depending on model. Point is you can't use the KR links, it will over stroke the shock. The other thing to bear in mind is the set up is quite ride height sensitive. Brillant once you have it dialled in, but you do need adjustment. As you are build ing the upper mount from scratch, I suggest putting in an adjuster to get the ride height set. Using the NC35 top mount and a flat mount with shims would be good but fiddly to set, or you could use two nuts like the RC45. Getting NC30 shocks with ride height adjustment is expensive, and you can engineer it in now much more inexpensively.
S/s arms are great to look at, but a RPIA for part interchangability.
Early Ducati rear wheels take a good bit of modification to fit to NC/RC back ends. The hole in the centre is the wrong diameter (Too small), and the offset is incorrect. Aside from that they are soft as anything and buckle very easily.... So if you bend one (and you will) you have to modify another one....
Later Ducati wheels have similar issues, but the hole is too big this time...
Oh and the wheel mounting face is not the centre of the wheel, there is an offset of between 5 and 20mm, depending on the arm, the wheel etc...
Ducati hubs dont fit into h***a arms. Heck even h***a arms are all different. Where the rear hub fits the NC30 is 60mm across, RC30 is 65mm across, RC45 is 70mm across, VFR750 is 65mm across but with 4 bolt wheel ILO of centre fixing and adds a cush drive system. The NC24 is different, NSR150 is different again, the MC28 twists, VFR800 bolts through the engine cases, RS250 is the wrong way up.....
Also the NC30/NC35 arm has no cush drive, unlike the KR, so expect the gear changes to be, well, worse....
You can buy 17" wheels for the NC arm, h***a made them for the NC35 and the MC28, so if you are truely lucky, you might get a magnesium one from an MC28. Alternatively DK spares sell the Chinese knock off copy (Delkevic) for about 300quid. Quality control is a bit variable though....
All the NC/MC series arm wheels are 4.5" wide. Most if not all of the 3 spoke wheels are 5.5" or larger. I'm not saying there aren't any 4.5" out there, but they are not common.
Triumph S/Siders are, well, Triumph copies of the Elf original, so bugger all fits with them.....
Never even considered the AF1 arm, it was bad enough in the original bike, so add more weight and power.... The only thing it is good for is melting down.
The other thing is the spacers you have in the front wheel spindle.
Jan is correct, the wheel spindle is no longer clamped by the fork legs and so it is now free to float wherever it wants to. Tip it into a corner and the fork legs will move in the bushes to take up the clearance and then the spindle will follow.... Along with the wheel and all your front end grip.....
If you can push it together by hand, there is clearance, and similarly if you can push it together by hand, imagine what 200kg of bike plus rider can do to it....
It would be a shame to ruin all the hard work with a low side on the first outing.
In my youth I had an AR125, I stripped and rebuilt the forks, put the whole lot back together, had a coffee, went out and crashed at the first bend.... I had not torqued up the front wheel spindle.... Trashed the forks, the fairing, the brake levers etc. etc....... Funny thing was, I tipped it in and thought, 'I expected them to be better than this'.... Lesson learned....
Sorry if this all sounds negative, but I have been there before.
Looking forward to seeing it finished.
Cheers
If you wanted them just in a zinc passitive I'd also recommend Simms of Halifax. Then again you can replace quite a few non specific bolts with stainless (engine casings etc). Disc bolts are available in Ti and Stainless from Pro-bolt. And you can by new ones from Kwak for some things. But yeah you're right shite bolts doesn't half spoil the job 
http://www.beringer.fr/cat/caten.pdf
