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Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 2:14 pm
by Bikemike
You are putting me to shame Lee! It's looking good.
I must get on with mine....

Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 12:07 pm
by SHimmer45
getting there if only i wasnt distracted by a leaking 250RS....
and had more garage space at the folks, damn living in a flat!

Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 6:44 pm
by SHimmer45
having seen some Carbon fibre work on another forum might look into some trick bodywork (front mudguard belly pan etc)

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:34 pm
by SHimmer45
Well another spring is here and havent moved it forward much....

i have a bit of a dilemma i purchased some reproduction F3 valves from charles some years ago which i havent fitted yet.
the question is do i go through the effort of making the changes to use them for a bike which is going to be used for Sunday ride outs and the like or do i sell them to someone who can make use of them......

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:19 pm
by 500bernie
Or you could put them in how they were designed to go....

Image

That would give you two full sets of valves :D

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:56 pm
by SHimmer45
i was a little lost reading the other thread about how to properly use them
and also the engine is just a 1 rather than an S

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:03 pm
by salty
This says change both cylinders to the kit parts (yeah dream on) change both ends (resonator side) of exhaust valve to the kit parts, moreover use the centre valve as a spare one because it is the same one as a standard automobile. Pay attention to the fitting of right and left valve.

So, according to this you use 2 standard and 2 kit valves - would be good if we had a kit cylinder - but I don't think that's going to happen.

I don't really speak jap but I know a man who does

Salty

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 11:04 pm
by 500bernie
Hi Salty,
Not many people with F3 barrels, but changing the outer valves is the easy option.

Re: SHimmer45's KR1-S

Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 9:50 pm
by SHimmer45
dont think im going to bother mucking about with the F3 valves.

Re: SHimmer45's KR1-S

Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:38 pm
by SHimmer45
rite then moved it out from storage and into a place i can work on it :)

would anyone happen to have a top rad mount kicking about which isnt mullered and a rad guard?

cheers

Lee

Re: SHimmer45's KR1-S

Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:35 pm
by SHimmer45
ok some progress made :shock:

better rad and guard fitted and all the pipework fitted.
Image

need a new clutch cable
a temp sender as the one in the engine has the tang broken off.

btw does anyone know how firm to open the throttle it snaps back nice and quickly but feels a bit heavy opening? might be that i have been riding the 250RS for too long as that has open and return cables for the throttle?

Re: SHimmer45's KR1-S

Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:41 pm
by martin
my guess is take the throttle cable off and wash it down inside with wd40 and then use 3 in 1 oil to lube it up. ]as long as the cables have no fraying on them, it should snap shut.]as the throttle bodies have springs on them. [also route the cable correctly]
but as you say, the kr1s does,nt have open and shut cables' .

Re: SHimmer45's KR1-S

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 6:49 am
by JanBros
SHimmer45 wrote: a temp sender as the one in the engine has the tang broken off.
you can solder a wire on it.

Re: SHimmer45's KR1-S

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:49 am
by SHimmer45
squirted WD down the cable and it feels better but still feels it needs a reasonable pull to open the carb slides, they do slam shut nicely however

Re: SHimmer45's KR1-S

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:51 am
by SHimmer45
JanBros wrote:
SHimmer45 wrote: a temp sender as the one in the engine has the tang broken off.
you can solder a wire on it.

prolly do this as a quick fix for the moment.