KR-1S.co.uk Forum

I need to change the seal on the forks and was wondering if you can change them without removing the stanchions from the lowers.
If i strip the forks ,where can i get the tool that allows you to turn the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork legs.
Also what size allen key is the bottom allen bolt as mine are too small
The oil in the forks was well manky so maybe giving them a good clean put would be good

P.S.
I want to get the little pin that holds the threaded part of the speedo drive
out.
Can i drill it out as it looks well stuck ?
Also could i drill all the way through the hole so next time i can tap it out from the other side Phew

Headcoats, To remove that Allen bolt, you do realise you have to remove the forks, take out the springs etc & old oil, compress the leg & slider together . With a torch look down the now empty leg, you will see what looks like a 20mm ish socket (out of a socket set ) staring back, this is what the original Allen bolt is screwed to through the atm of the slider. You need to find a bolt ( prefer high tensile ) the right size to fit that socket. I have welding equipment. So welded the bolt to a bar which extends it out of the length of the leg then I welded a tee handle to that.> So you hold on to that and unscrew said Allen bolt. rh/ thread Again you can use a high tensile bolt as an Allen key, if you dont have the right size....probly obvious but keep all the bits in order, & watch for the copper seal under the Allen bolt. Either replace it or anneal it... two alternatives. get somebody else to do it, or change your riding style to suit soggy forks Iv'e always found the seals to be a bit of a pig to remove on an old bike even doing it fully stripped so would think not on without stripping.....If anyone reads this and its flawed please correct. Alan.

Cheers Alan
Great response
The forks have already been drained and the springs removed
I did look down the insides and saw this bolt
Yer don't want to make me a tool do ya (for a small fee)
I have 3 pairs of forks so was going to use the stanchions from one
and the lowers from another etc
Does anyone know the size of the bolt that fits the inside of the stanchion?

Would this fit the job ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :IT&ih=009

I'm between sheds so cant find things easily
I think this was the latest incarnation of the tool I made, 1/2 in drive
socket. Allen key is 10mm ......... If your stuck PM an address I'll post. Alan.......... Dont recognise that ebay kawa tool

sometimes, the allen bolt at the bottom can be loosend with the forks complete. turn the spring compression to it's max and try it.

if that does'nt work, try an "air wrench" if you have one (used in garages to take off car-wheels).

Well i got the forks seperated
The oil in there was well passed it's best
I now need to fit some new fork seals,so are genuine ones the way to go or can someone name some good aftermarket ones.

I will have to put in new fork oil and i know you measure the oil level with the forks compressed and the spring removed but do you need one of those tools with the long tube and syringe

Oh and what torque should the bottom allen bolt need to be

Bump
Still need to know the oil measurments for rebuilt forks
Just need to know the measurment from top of the stanchion to the oil
level with spring out and forks compressed
Had a look at the manual on here and it has been crossed out and different figures put in for the measurment

In the manual (on this site) it says 421ml (when assembling) and 125mm

If you are rebuilding them it should be accurate to measure the volume you put in, if just draining and refilling then it might be more accurate to measure distance down the stanchion. Either way what matters most is that they are both the same.

torque is also specified in the manual; 61 Nm, 45 ft/lb

Cheers
Just had another look at the KR1-S manual and is it right in saying the
measurment from the top of the compressed fork leg without the spring is

186mm +/- 2mm to the oil level

If this can be confirmed i will go with this

yes it is, sorry I was looking at the KR1 manual