KR-1S.co.uk Forum

maybe, you think it's a stupit question but I want it to know

I'm looking for diffrend exhuast for my bike

i found 2 brands

The Jim Lomas


Jollymoto


are there more brands??

That's about it for aftermarket pipes that are available now (only other one that springs to mind is Beet, have a look on ebay there's normall some for sale by jap4performance about £350)

Other previously available include Nikkon, Micron GP, Swarbrick, Stan Stephens (swarbrick and stephens may be the same, not sure) and Gibson systems. Various end cans such as MIG (did DEP ever do any?) Swarbrick, Lomas, Johnson etc etc.

There is probably some more obscure ones especially some of the Jap market ones, but I can't think of any more at the minute.

bang for your buck...the lomas r the best...only just beating standard exhausts.....and a lot lighter.....

Has anyone got an opinion on the Nikon chambers, they seem very good value, hand made too.

Nikons? Dead light, always thought they were about the best aftermarket pipes until the Lomas ones came out, believe they may not be quite as good as std pipes but on a road bike think you'd be hard pushed to notice.

Think quite a few on here have had nikkons on, myself, Garry etc and all pretty much like them. Believe that they're no longer available new cos Frank at Nikkon has packed in, should be able to find s/h fairly easy and for not a ridiculous price.

Red Devil 777 wrote:Nikons? Dead light, always thought they were about the best aftermarket pipes until the Lomas ones came out, believe they may not be quite as good as std pipes but on a road bike think you'd be hard pushed to notice.

Think quite a few on here have had nikkons on, myself, Garry etc and all pretty much like them. Believe that they're no longer available new cos Frank at Nikkon has packed in, should be able to find s/h fairly easy and for not a ridiculous price.

Shame you can't buy new anymore, i'll probably end up with KR1S chambers.

couple of sets on ebay that look decent enuff.

im pretty lucky that the ones that came with my bike are in good fettle.

all they need is a rub down and painting with PJ1 or something similar

After testing loads of pipes on the dyno the Lomas wins hands down and they also look ace. Nikkons give good mid range but fall off at the top and you loss over a 1000 RPM Gibsons are simular, standard KR1S are very good but Lomas are the best that we've tested and they beat the standard pipes everywhere

hi,

can i use the standard jetting for the lomas pipes or should the jetting be richer?

thanks heiko

hb500cc wrote:hi,

can i use the standard jetting for the lomas pipes or should the jetting be richer?

thanks heiko

I can only say what I have found on my race bike, which is ram air, full race tune and 35mm carbs with v force reeds, flowed and blue printed crankcases and cylinders and running 50%Avgas/petrol and a programable ignition.

With the Lomas pipes I found I was about 1 and a 1/2 jets richer than with nikkons so about two jet sizes bigger than standard. If you do a search on the forum I have posted the jet size for a given air temp, pressure and humidity, but if your not racing and don't want to be swapping jets all the time this is probably a bit too close to the edge.

I've not ran them with the standard 28mm carbs and airbox, so I couldn't say for sure but to be on the safe side I would jet up atleast a couple of sizes and then do a plug chop to see what the engine is running like.

cant wait to get some nice lomas pipes. will get zeeltronics 1st though. god how long have i been sayin that!!! hard pushed to top std lee apart from masses of weight. elf and mark have tested lots of stuff between them and found std to top anything as an all round (top end and grunt) until the lomas appeared. i think it depends on your engine spec/what style of characteristics suit you . im soft and dont rev thae arse of it. in fact, ive seen an indicated 12krpm which in reality is way optimistic, esp as i have nikons. there are 2 types of nikons for the 1s that i know of. ealy and later (more popular) i do think i have a very good cdi though which may account for the revs to a certain extent. not known in kr land!! even though the motor is tuned to quite highly (peaky) i feel it makes nice smooth power with nikons and change much sooner than i would of with say a std (peakier feeling) motor. nikons are very good if your bothered about weight/sound and have a std motor or like to use the mid power. lomas are better full stop. std are very good, nearly as good as lomas, better than nikons but heavy. value wise there the best in terms of bang for buck. esp if you have a std kr1 as the kr1 pipes are crap. kr1s been worth 4-5hp over kr1!!! im unsure wether beet pipes can deliver, lomas are proven. huxley, tony green and swift are other trick pipes built for the kr at some stage. very erxpensive as they were built to a given engine spec i think? still at 345.00 in 1990 ish they werent cheap. im reffering to swift pipes.

Hi Elf,

the-elf wrote: I've not ran them with the standard 28mm carbs and airbox, so I couldn't say for sure but to be on the safe side I would jet up atleast a couple of sizes and then do a plug chop to see what the engine is running like.

Mark (MJ) told me "On the standard engine with PWK28 run a 135 main jet and the air filter."

I must however say, that was before he tried a standard engine on the dyno.
You think it would be wiser to start with 145 or 140 main jet? Don't want to ruin the engine.....

thanks,
Charles

Charles wrote:Hi Elf,

the-elf wrote: I've not ran them with the standard 28mm carbs and airbox, so I couldn't say for sure but to be on the safe side I would jet up atleast a couple of sizes and then do a plug chop to see what the engine is running like.

Mark (MJ) told me "On the standard engine with PWK28 run a 135 main jet and the air filter."

I must however say, that was before he tried a standard engine on the dyno.
You think it would be wiser to start with 145 or 140 main jet? Don't want to ruin the engine.....

thanks,
Charles

I think MJ is about right as that would be my guess, but to be on the safe side, I would still do a plug chop to make sure. If there is a dyno local to up I would nip it down there and within a run or two you should have it spot on.