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KR1s Re Commisioning

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 5:03 pm
by Bertie_Mollie
Hi Guys,

Just bought another KR1S that has been stood for a while and has no spark. The KIPS servo was not cycling either.

I fitted the CDI from my other bike and now the kips cycle when the ignition is switched on however still no spark.

Is the most likely culprit now expected to be the stator?

I have just ordered a puller so I'll try to swap that over with my other bike when it arrives also.

Are there any other precations I should take? I have read here that if the regulator fails then the CDI can get damaged. Could this have been the cause? If so should I change it to be sure? I obviously don't the same problem again :oops: .

Cheers

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:35 am
by Bertie_Mollie
Before I go much further swapping stator plate I noticed a wire red / yellow that is not connected (see below). Can't obviously see where it connects. Can anyone tell me if and where it should be connected.

I am also interested in understanding the function of the clutch lever switch (see picure). Are bikes usually fitted with a side stand switch? this one doesn't seem to have one. Is the clutch switch to cut the engine when the side stand is down if you let it out?

Want to check these out first before I waste too much time.

Cheers

Image
Image

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:24 am
by col
the kr had a side stand cut out switch, wouldnt start with the side stand down, the wire from the lever will be for that.

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:26 am
by JanBros
top left off the screen you can download the manuals : it's all in there :wink:

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:52 am
by garye345
dont worry about the wire mate mines exactly the same and i thought and felt the exact same thing when i changed the engine and found it :shock: the mechanic calmed me down and as of yesterday it runs perfect as it is :D

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:51 pm
by Bertie_Mollie
garye345 wrote:dont worry about the wire mate mines exactly the same and i thought and felt the exact same thing when i changed the engine and found it :shock: the mechanic calmed me down and as of yesterday it runs perfect as it is :D
Hi Gary,

OK sounds like you have the loose wire identical to mine.

I'll have to check out the side stand switch situation.

Cheers

Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:31 am
by nate
I had one of those... just left it flapping :mrgreen:

Everything seems to work well enough \:D/

Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 1:36 pm
by Garry
as per nate :)

Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 10:30 pm
by Bertie_Mollie
Hi Guys,

Thanks for all of the replies. The loose wire seems normal.

The side stand switch has been removed and replaced with a wiring "loop" which I have checked for continuity. The interlock switch seems to be working also.

If I can get the flywheel off :roll: then I will try a known stator.

Cheers

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:34 am
by ScottaKR
Rather than just replaceing things randomly, you'd be better off to get a manual (download link in upper left corner) and test things first, as it could just be a bad connection in a plug somewhere or maybe even the coil.
Good luck mate.
Scott

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 11:15 pm
by mr_bungholeo
if you suspect the rectifier and you have a spare id change it just to prevent any more damage..then sort out the problem if its still there...as above before getting spares it could be a bad connection on a bike of that age....(poor old thing)... :lol:

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:17 am
by Bertie_Mollie
mr_bungholeo wrote:if you suspect the rectifier and you have a spare id change it just to prevent any more damage..then sort out the problem if its still there...as above before getting spares it could be a bad connection on a bike of that age....(poor old thing)... :lol:
Don't have a spare rectifier I'm affraid :( .

Spent yesterday evening checking thinks over and still no joy as yet.

Stupid question but are the exciter coils the larger coils on the stator plate? They look very black but seem to be OK to the resistance values in the manual.

Also checked the pickup coil resistance and ignition coil resistance of primary windings. Couldn't get a reading on the secondary windings so I thought I had found the problem. Swapped it to my other bike to check complete with the rectifier and my other bike fired up. :-k .

So I have a known good CDI, coil, rectifier does work (not sure if that means it is OK) and good resistance readings for the exciter coils, pickup coil.

Starting to think this could be a bad connection somewhere. Will start here next time round.

Any other suggestions welcome :wink: .

Cheers

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 3:23 pm
by the-elf
Check that the recifier isn't allowing too much voltage to go to the battery and CDI.

The ignition coils are the three bare ones on the stator.

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 4:01 pm
by Bertie_Mollie
the-elf wrote:Check that the recifier isn't allowing too much voltage to go to the battery and CDI.

The ignition coils are the three bare ones on the stator.
Bare isn't the word that comes to mind with my ignition coils. My initial reaction was this is obviously the problem as they are black and look burnt but the coils seemed to check out OK for resistance?

Is this likely to be the problem?

Image

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:32 pm
by the-elf
Bertie_Mollie wrote:
the-elf wrote:Check that the recifier isn't allowing too much voltage to go to the battery and CDI.

The ignition coils are the three bare ones on the stator.
Bare isn't the word that comes to mind with my ignition coils.
Opps I missed the word "not " out of that sentance. The three coils which a re not bare are the ones for the ignition. I remember when mine went it was a slow death. Where the coils started to breakdown under load but checked out ok on the multimeter. They slow got worse until they were totally knacked.

You haven't got one of the cut out switches like the sidestand or clutch stuck in? as they will short out the spark, same with the kill switch?