KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Finally after a year's time got my engine running sweet, now to discover my side stand switch doesn't work properly, and I need it badly to pass the TÜV-test on friday.....

The switch itself is functioning ok (zero resistance with switch engaged) . Checked both attached wires blue/white and yellow/black but neither shows any voltage with the ignition switched on.

Checked the resistance of the blue/white one between its starting point at at the switch and its ending at the diode and it's all ok.

The black/yellow one disappears in the main loom, so I don't know how to check its resistance. As it comes from the ignition switch I suppose it should read 12V at the end of it near the side stand switch. Am I right?

Would be very grateful for any suggestions what to do/check next [-o<

Charles

download the manual , it has the electric circuit.

checked the clutch-switch

en nu in't vloms : in de manual kunt ge perfekt volgen welke draad naar waar gaat en kunt ge alles doormeten. er staan zelfs apparte circuits in voor bv starten of laden, met alleen de draden die daartoe doen. als je die volgt, zal je wel rap uitkomen bij het probleem.

JanBros wrote:download the manual , it has the electric circuit.

yes, I know, that's what I checked first.

JanBros wrote: checked the clutch-switch

no, not yet. What does it do exactly? It disables the ignition when you try to start the engine while a gear is engaged?

I measured the resistance of the diode: all values are ok.

So that leaves only the CDI as faulty, or am I wrong there?

Ignition cut out is nothing to do with the cdi. It just shorts out the ignition curcuit to earth.

the-elf wrote:Ignition cut out is nothing to do with the cdi. It just shorts out the ignition curcuit to earth.

you're sure? It 's the CDI that shorts out the ignition circuit to earth, or am I completely wrong?

On my bike neither the clutch switch nor the side stand switch work., and here in Germany I need a working side stand switch. Wished I had stayed in Holland......

Tested both switches: they're both fine.
Tested the diodes: all three ok.
Tested all wires (from CDI to diodes, from diodes to switches): no resistance whatsoever, so all fine.
Tested the resistance of the black/yellow to earth: none, so ok as well
Switched the cables on the diodes, no effect whatsoever.

Using another CDI however didn't make a difference at all

And I wonder why the neutral switch does work, as I unplug the green wire from its connector the engine immediately dies........

any suggestions [-o<

The nuetral switch (green cable) under the engine is only to switch the warning light on the dash and nothing to do with the ignition, so it shouldn't cut the engine at all.

The engine cut off switch, side stand and clutch switches all operate by shorting out the ignition (from the CDI to earth) and so killing the engine.

I'll have a look at the wiring diagram when I get home and see if I can figure out what's wrong.

the-elf wrote:The nuetral switch (green cable) under the engine is only to switch the warning light on the dash and nothing to do with the ignition, so it shouldn't cut the engine at all.

it does switch the warning light on, but when I pull it off it also kills the engine.... Put the green cable on another diode (tested all 3 of them once again) and it still kills the engine.

Thanks Elf for having a look at the electrical scheme!

Any luck with this yet? I think there may be a short somewhere? but I'm stuck working away in Liverpool this week so can't help much.

the-elf wrote:Any luck with this yet?

compared the resistance of the diodes with those from Jan's 2 pairs of diodes. As those were significantly different, I bought a new set from the local kwak dealer and now everything works fine!

Hi Charles,

and now fast to the "TÜV"!


Dirk

Charles wrote:

the-elf wrote:Any luck with this yet?

compared the resistance of the diodes with those from Jan's 2 pairs of diodes. As those were significantly different, I bought a new set from the local kwak dealer and now everything works fine!

Great to hear its sorted. I was confussed, as the neutral light switch is connected to the engine cut out system, but in the opposite way ie its wired so the safety switches won't cut out when its on. Should have guessed that by disconnecting it and cutting out the engine it was the diode. Guess I was being a bit thick

ok lightning