KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Do I have to split the cases to change gearbox internals?
I'm asking because I have a bottom end in good nick with a suspect gearbox; and a set of cases with blown crank seal but everything else ok.
I would like to plunder the known good 'box, add it to the good bottom end and bobs my uncle.
I'm a bit anxious not to screw up a good crank, they're not cheap to get rebuilt.
If I do have to split the cases how do you rate my chances of the bottom end surviving? (skill level-reasonable mechanic but not done any real engine work for years, and that was all on mini's and escorts)
Wish me luck,
Mike

Nope no need to spilt the cases to remove the gear box. just remove the clutch completely and the gear on the end of the output shaft which connectes to the kickstart. You then need to remove the two remaining circlips.

On the other side, remove the gear selectorlink , the cover and the internals, to get to the 2 or 3 bolts in their. Then remove the gearbox cover case bolts and it'll just pull out. Its about a 1/2 hour job.

Brilliant, thats the answer I was hoping for
Thanks Kevin,
Mike

Half Hour Job.... Yeah Right
LOL...
Mean while...
after removing the covers...!

wakasaki wrote:
Half Hour Job.... Yeah Right
LOL...
Mean while...
after removing the covers...!

You get quicker with pratice

dont fortget the x2 cross heads that hold the small kidney shaped retaining plate as youll be left wondering why the cassete holding the gearbox seperates by 5mm and then wont budge no further!! the urge to prize the bastard open with a crow bar is untrue!! its in the drive sprocket side. i think mj can do this opertaion in about 15mins!! me about 1/2 hour if all goes acordingly. if the cassete (g box) wont slide out then you have forgotten something. it takes a bit of juggling to get back together. use a dab of grease on the small bushes so they stay put while you re assemble.

mgtkr1 wrote:dont fortget the x2 cross heads that hold the small kidney shaped retaining plate.

Sat here thinking "what cross heads" till I remembered that I replaced all thoses "screws" with proper socket heads, years ago .

there is a good thread started by me but with it all spelled out from MJ and all the knowledgble crown..

Think it was called "splitting the case help" or something

Spells it all out in simple language so even I could understand it

Finally got round to doing this tonight, took about 1/2 hour to get apart; I've a feeling it will take longer to put back together though!

A couple of the joints did not have any gasket, just what looked like a thin smear of grey sealant, is this correct?
If so, what is this sealant, can I get it and is there an easily available alternative if it is a Kawasaki special part.

Mike

Yep that is correct. It's Kwack seal, Its a instant type gasket that can bridge big gaps etc. h***a bond is better IMHO, Wellseal is tons better but is designed for tight tolerance faces and so dosn't bridge big gaps as easily, you need to apply sevelal layers and always let the stuff dry in between layers and before assembly.

All of these's are available on ebay, or from your local dealer. Alternativly cheaper substitudes are available from Halfords, cheaper isn't always worse, but then again sometimes it is. If you have the cash go for h***a Bond (think its the h***a bond number 5 stuff but could be wrong) or wellseal but wellseal is highly toxic, is a possiable carigenic and takes a bit of effort to use correctly, that said it was used to seal flange faces on steam turbines, until a few years ago, containing superheated steam at 550^C at 60bar. Enough said.

You can also get this grey sealant from any Ducati dealer - just ask for the grey sealant in a tube for engine cases (red tube marked Ducati but made by three-bond)