Page 1 of 3
Starting!
Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:59 pm
by LotusSevenMan
Bike has been great since I leaned it off on the needles. Haven't used it much due to weather.
Takes off well and pulls smoothly etc etc though when I've been out.
Problem is, getting it bl%dy going in the first place!!!
I try and start it about every two weeks or so to save the crankshaft seals.
It has always taken a few prods but once going it starts with your hand on the kickstarter as in real easy.
The but is that now it takes ages to start. Prod, prod, prod etc It is almost like a fuel supply problem. Choke on (or off) makes no difference. Now I put it down to evaporation of the fuel perhaps. I started it yesterday so after a lot of kicking over it ran and ran fine. Went to start it tonight and it was the same hard story. Have tried fuel tap on prime; no difference.
Could it be a battery voltage problem? Do you need a good charge to run the ignition system? Wonder if it is just not being charged for long and with colder weather it is low on voltage.
In fact I'll take the battery out and charge it now then try it tomorrow night and see.
Any other ideas though just in case that's not it?
Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:37 pm
by mgtkr1
the battery has absolutly no effect on the ignition. ie the bike will run without the battery etc unless its a race ignition (total loss). what do the plugs look like? have you checked your getting a healthy spark as the jetting changes may just be coincidental and you may have a minor electrical fault. what position are the needle clips now in? are you sure youi havent distured the float height when playing with the carbs? its sounds like either the plugs need replacing or something amiss with the carbs. you can rule out the battery at least. check connectors etc from the cd1/stator/coil/plugs caps-ht leads and plugs. turn the motor over with the plugs out to check the quality of the spark. we will know a great deal more depending on the outcome. im sure its nothing to worry about. also, make sure the bike is properly heat cycled, prefferably ridden a few miles as starting the bike cold, repeatadly enhances wear. a quick ride when weather permits will pay dividends as long as your motor is warmed carefully.
Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:36 pm
by LotusSevenMan
Plugs look good, and nice fat spark so ???
Seem,s strange that once going it is dead easy to start and runs well.
Strange.
Needles are on the highest position IE. Weakest running.
Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:06 am
by JanBros
Had/have the same problem :
* true, you don't need the battery, but in my opinion, the bike will almost not start when you have your lights on. so make sure they are off.
* the evaporation off the fuel in the carbs is a problem. normaly putting it on prime helps, but if it's been to long mine won't start either. so I drilled a little hole in the airbox, passing through the hole in the side panel. That way I can easily spray some start-pilot into the airbox

Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:13 am
by LotusSevenMan
JB.
Well I never have the lights on at start and certainly have tried the 'prime' route with the tap.
I LIKE the idea of a spray 'quick starter' hole!!! Shouldn't be necessary if it's all working OK, but if it works then that's great. =D>
starting problem
Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:53 pm
by KR-1R
STATOR
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 1:26 am
by garye345
daft Lovely Chap here as a similar prob,last time it only just managed to keep going then cut out,canny bollox get it going now,changed coil,rectifiyer,checked fuses,changed cdi and still no spark so i am trying above when i can be arsed!
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:13 am
by LotusSevenMan
Is it easy to change the STATOR? I have a spare 'good' engine here so not sure as never attempted (or needed to attempt) this before with any bike ????
Cheers
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:40 am
by Charles
LotusSevenMan wrote:Is it easy to change the STATOR?
yes, but you need a flywheel puller and a flywheel holder in order to remove the flywheel.
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:46 am
by scooble
I had a similar problem once, it turned out to be a broken choke cable.
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 4:52 pm
by LotusSevenMan
Thanks Charles. I had a feeling you'd need a couple of 'special tools' neither of which I have.
I'll see about scrounging some.
Scooble.
Not my problem this one. Choke cables definitely working.
Make you guys laugh. I have now got a cricked upper hip/leg joint from bl%dy kicking it over. Flamin' painful.
Must find a way of being able to hold that damn sprung loaded footpeg folded up too as I always catch the stupid thing (as in stupid at kickstarting time; essential when riding!!!)

Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 6:54 pm
by Charles
here's a puller
and
here a flywheel holder
cheers,
Charles
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:22 pm
by LotusSevenMan
Thanks Charles!
Is that FS1E one really the same as used for a KR1?
If so I'm gonna have to spend some money (and having just bought a second hand Ducati 748 I ain't got a lot left!!!!

).
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:51 pm
by Charles
LotusSevenMan wrote:
Is that FS1E one really the same as used for a KR1?
yes, the only thing that matters is the thread size M27x1mm.
This one will fit your KR1-S. It's not that expensive, you can always sell your Ducati
Charles
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:03 pm
by LotusSevenMan
Whay hey! Sell the Ducati? Yeah right. No way Pedro.
Well, just been out and fitted the now charged battery. Ignition on, choke pull on. Prod, foot slips off kickstarter (must put a rubber grip cover on it to stop this) and it whacks me in the back of the leg. Drat. [-o<
Two prods later the bike is running fine =D>
This is in the open air with an outside air temp of just 3*C.
Don't know how this battery voltage thing works on the magneto ignition but it obviously does.
Cured? Well, there can't be too much wrong here eh?
A racer mate said they only ever use Super unleaded fuel for the additional octane rating. Am I wrong using std pump unleaded fuel then?
Sorry for the fourstroke on this fine two stroke forum, but would YOU sell it having just got it Charles? I won't be!!!!
