Race Bike Rebuild

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:29 am

Well it's now been a year since I purchased my KR1 and it's time for a diet before the winter series starts. I have decided to beef up the crash protection also. So if anybody has some ideas on what I don't need please let me know. I have removed all the suspension linkages and greased them and reassembled. Now the frame is on the stand ready for assembly.

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:31 am

Engine mounted

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:59 am

KR1S gutted pipes fitted. Mufflers have also lost some weight, 4"s shorter.
Nothing will escape the diet.

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:02 am

35mm carbs

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:11 am

Dash simple but effective. Rev counter very heavy, would be nice to have something smaller & lighter. Getting rid of the ignition switch also, will just have toggle switch for battery ignition and tether switch for kill switch.

KR-1R · Post by **KR-1R** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:30 pm

you could use a temperature gauge that actually does something
like read actual numbers. what about a digital one or stepping motor type...

On a warm up lap can you give it death at 55° ?
You might know somethings about to go wrong at 85° when she normally runs at 76 say

such as DAMO666's
viewtopic.php?p=32258&highlight=digital+temp#32258

might not want a black face/smoked one...
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 846041.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 524047.htm

http://www.bikesport.co.nz/product_info ... 2a97ddb083
but if you were gonna spend that amount what about Trailtech Vapor

cant beat Alans Mychron for trickness

viewtopic.php?p=30795&highlight=mychron#30795

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:10 pm

Okay point taken, will fit temp guage with numbers. Watch this space.

mgtkr1 · Post by **mgtkr1** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:18 pm

std rev counter works well. for the weight, not really worth worrying about. theres loads of weight to be saved elsewhere before thinking about the few grams bulk in the oe tacho. the temp gauge is rubbish tyhough, i keep forgetting to order a decent replacement for my std broken/crap one. the stator carries a lot of excess weight, remove the windings if you dont mind total loss. k/start mech/oil pup/oil tank and water tank saves a bit more weight. the front fairing bracket is an anchor. making a light weight replacement has a few benefits. in a spill the lighter mount will break rather than your frame mounts. also saves a considerable amount of weight. i made mine (tz/h***a rs style) out of fibreglass) weighs f all. the best mod for improved lap times is sorted suspension/sticky tyres and 17' rear hoop. also hh pads and radial master cyl is a well known combination, increasing braking power hugely. lomas/nikon/gibson or similar will save yet more weight.

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:33 pm

mgtkr1 wrote:std rev counter works well. for the weight, not really worth worrying about. theres loads of weight to be saved elsewhere before thinking about the few grams bulk in the oe tacho. the temp gauge is rubbish tyhough, i keep forgetting to order a decent replacement for my std broken/crap one. the stator carries a lot of excess weight, remove the windings if you dont mind total loss. k/start mech/oil pup/oil tank and water tank saves a bit more weight. the front fairing bracket is an anchor. making a light weight replacement has a few benefits. in a spill the lighter mount will break rather than your frame mounts. also saves a considerable amount of weight. i made mine (tz/h***a rs style) out of fibreglass) weighs f all. the best mod for improved lap times is sorted suspension/sticky tyres and 17' rear hoop. also hh pads and radial master cyl is a well known combination, increasing braking power hugely. lomas/nikon/gibson or similar will save yet more weight.

General consensus is temp guage is crap. Oil pump and tank gone, water tank gone, will retain k/start, quite handy for starting on the stand. Fairings are fibre glass and I can just about spit though them. I need to keep as close to original for post classics class. I wouldn't mine getting rid of the front fairing mount tho. Any ideas on that or pics.

KR-1R · Post by **KR-1R** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:14 pm

YEP cant really go wrong with an analog tacho

You could wrap/skin those exhaust cans with a couple of green cans of 'V' [but Ive seen that done before]

KwakOn · Post by **KwakOn** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 1:07 pm

there were ally front mounts on ebay(uk) before, sorry cant remember any details.

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:39 pm

Need to crack on. Next meeting is in Taupo on the A1 GP track next weekend 5th april.
RGV250 radiator fitted. Have had billet filler neck welded on instead of having the remote one.

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:47 pm

Air box fitted, no air filter but stainless mesh to stop items bigger than half a ml.

mgtkr1 · Post by **mgtkr1** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:59 pm

you got some ducting for the airbox? or running a heatshield? made my own airbox, not to a pro std but it works and im reasonably happy with results from a static point of view. will find out if it works as intended shortly but dont see how it cant. miles more volume, supplied by cool air.

nzkr1 · Post by **nzkr1** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 11:52 pm

mgtkr1 wrote:you got some ducting for the airbox? or running a heatshield? made my own airbox, not to a pro std but it works and im reasonably happy with results from a static point of view. will find out if it works as intended shortly but dont see how it cant. miles more volume, supplied by cool air.

Here we go, some heat shielding which sits on top of the radiator.

The tank has been modified for increased air flow