KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Did about 15 miles,stopped to go to shop,got back on the bike,wouldn't start,had all my lights,indicators etc.Took off spark plug covers and NO spark.Also noticed my kips were not"resetting"either.Tried starting again,nothing.Waited about 20mins,it wasn't flooded the 1st time btw,she fired up easily but kips still not moving when i turn on ignition.Could it be CDI unit?

neil68 wrote:Also noticed my kips were not"resetting"either.

They don't move at all, or do they stay in the "open" just as mine did?

cheers,
Charles

No they just remain in the closed position.Everything was workikng fine until the bike wouldn't start,now it starts easily,everything works except p/valves.can you test the p/valve motor,rectifier,cdi?

neil68 wrote:Everything was workikng fine until the bike wouldn't start,now it starts easily,everything works except p/valves.can you test the p/valve motor,rectifier,cdi?

yes, look in the manual:

http://www.kr-1s.co.uk/manual/Part%2015 ... System.pdf

cheers,
Char

I had the same issue with the valves not opening or closing but it seems that the battery is needed and well charged to make the valves work ok.

I thought once the engine was running that the valves would always work, seems they need the battery to do that.

My issue was the battery connector. There is an in line bullet connector from the positive terminal. So battery shows good when checked across the terminals, bike runs, but the wire cannot carry any current coz the little geezer had corroded away, so the power valves don't work.

What I don't really understand is why the headlight was bright without the bike running.... Weird... Still I swapped out the wire for a spare and it is working fine now.

I found it by accidentally dropping the meter onto the wire..... There was no connection then....

smithyrc30 wrote:I had the same issue with the valves not opening or closing but it seems that the battery is needed and well charged to make the valves work ok.

I thought once the engine was running that the valves would always work, seems they need the battery to do that.

wrong, in 13 years I 've never had a decent battery in my bike. you don't need it for anything even when your battery doens't produces 1 single volt, the bike will start (it you put your lights-switch off) and everything will work on the current produced by the bike at the moment.

H Jan et al, I was just reporting what I saw on my bike.

Very poor electrical connection to the positive on the battery, powervalves do not cycle on the key... Expected result.

Start bike, let it warm up for a bit, headlight is bright. Rev engine a bit, not a change in the powervalves. Rev engine a lot (10,000) valves still shut.

Fix battery connection, valves cycle on key and work at around 7000 ish, (bit difficult to say exactly trying to watch the valves and the tacho, but around there.

Just what I saw on my bike, 1989 B1 with S engine and cdi.

If that is wrong, then I shall go into the garage and give the bike a severe telling off!

I had a problem once when I turned the ignition on the p/v's wouldn't cycle and wouldn't open @7K.

What I did then is the powervalve test, as per the manual - i.e. connect the positive terminal of the battery directly to the p/v motor and let it spin.

Plug everythig back in, turn on, pv's should cycle, start engine and they should open @ 7k.

sometimes it seems to get itself in a bit confused and needs to be reset with the above test - once done - all ok

scooble wrote: sometimes it seems to get itself in a bit confused and needs to be reset with the above test - once done - all ok

I had the same experience.