Yamasaki

scooble · Post by **scooble** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 12:59 pm

mmm, nice, are those swarbrick end cans?
make sure you post a vid on youtube as I'm sure it sounds great with those open carbs

Gordi · Post by **Gordi** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 1:10 pm

That's right, Scoobie, they're Swarbricks. Never put anything on youtube before but will give it a go later. I'll have to get used to the reversed gearshift now. 1 up and 5 down-buggar!!

Gonzohop · Post by **Gonzohop** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 4:02 pm

Looks barking mad! I love it! =D>

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:58 am

That's a lovely job you've done there Gordi, top marks

Gordi · Post by **Gordi** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:20 pm

MoT on Saturday!n Oo-er!!! I'm sure it's gonna be too loud. Soon find out.

scooble · Post by **scooble** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:58 pm

I used to have an IT465 on a Q plate and it always went through an MOT - even though it could shake your fillings out from 10 paces and make your ears bleed!
If you need to make it quieter (noooo!) you can always wrap some exhaust bandage round the spannies.

Gordi · Post by **Gordi** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 6:05 pm

Buttocks--Failed on headlight bulb and binding front brake.
Ran like a dog. My mate Ray reckons carbs are knackered and need replacing but £160 each?? Bloke at MoT station said to get them ultrasonically cleaned and set up on a dyno. Cheaper but is it worth the risk if the carbs are knacked. Even cheaper are copy carbs from Thailand.
Really need your advice here, guys!
Like I said it ran like a dog but KIPs opened just the once. Jeeeezussssss!!!!

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 6:18 pm

Hi Gordi,

Gordi wrote: Even cheaper are copy carbs from Thailand.

don't buy those, they are crap and won't help you at all.

Charles

scooble · Post by **scooble** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 6:47 pm

I've always found that carbs can be brought back to life with a good clean, fine piece of wire and an airline attachment

Gordi · Post by **Gordi** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 2:07 pm

Another glorious MoT failure on front brake binding.
Pads have been changed for Ferodos, calliper stripped & cleaned (again), pistons rubbed down and greased (again) and still the bloody brake sticks on. Don't know what to try next. Maybe remove dust seals? Any ideas?

ScottaKR · Post by **ScottaKR** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 2:40 pm

If youve gone right over the calipers, maybe it's worth checking out the master cylender as it could be holding pressure in the lines perhaps.
Try recreating the binding issue, and while they're still bound open the bleed nipple on the caliper (making sure to catch any fluid that may escape), and see if the brakes release. If they do then the problem is in the master cylender.
Worth a try before you tear the calipers apart again (or your hair out for that matter

).
Good luck.

KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Yamasaki

Could this be the end????

Just maybe...

??

!!!!

!!

!!

MoT

Re: MoT

Bummer!!