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KR-1E

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:18 am
by moltenmaniac
barrels nackered on my kr1 so thought instead of spending heaps of money getting new shit (am still student so have bugger all) id go in a different direction, and do an ev conversion, first step is to remove and pack all the engine parts etc, i am wondering what the best way to store these, ive removed all fuel from carbs and drained tank, is there any other tips for long term storage (as i intend to put the engine back in eventually, unless i can get better perfomance with the electric version!!), first try will be a small AC motor and some lead acid batteries while i get control system sorted out, then provided that works i shuold be able to put a bigger motor and better quality batteries in to get some good performance and range out of it (esimating thi project will take a good few years till for me to have anything on the road!)

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 12:17 pm
by col
sorry but could you be more specific about what your trying to do?
fit an electric motor to your kr, is that what your on about?

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 6:13 pm
by Cliff
The Sinclair KR, that would be a first. Sorry, showing my age :D .

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 6:58 pm
by Garry
think a repaired barrel sounds cheaper than doing all that :shock:

can't see it being as quick either :lol:

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:47 pm
by moltenmaniac
yeh i plan to use a standard AC induction (electric motor) and a few car batteries, it will still be cheaper than a repaired barrel (using the slow motor but will cost more if i decide to upgrade the motor) im definitely not expecting it to be a fast as a kr1. but this project has lways interested me and now that i have a bike wih a buggered engine i can try it, if it goes well i might swap the system to a freestyle MX bike as the range and power issues would not be as much of a problem there

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:51 pm
by Rome69

Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:19 am
by SHimmer45
if you cant afford to get them replated... when looking at doing mine i was quoted around 125 for the pair.

you could get them sleeved this suggestion prolly going to split opinion but mine ran for around 8000miles with NO problems at all.
good oil was the key imo

either that or get something else to use that is cheaper it is suprising what you can get cheap on Ebay this time of year

Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:42 pm
by the-elf
I've got some spare KR1 cylinders in good nick that I am not gonna be using, You can have one of these for a few quid, if it helps. Which one do you need?

Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 12:00 am
by corky
bloody hell how good is that crosser..cud use that anywhere without anyone comlaining..want one NOW...
my neighbours would be chuffed..

Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 12:40 am
by col
its only got a 3 hour battery life.
you better take a long extension lead :lol:

Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 4:19 am
by moltenmaniac
thanks for the offer the-elf, i need both and a source of cheap pistons and rings would be good (if one exists!), freight to new zealand could be costly although ive never looked into it.

Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 1:32 pm
by the-elf
Well I have two KR1 cylinders complete with used pistons and rings in very good nick. Cost of postage will probably be more than they are worth knowing rip-off Britian's postal service. Still interested?

Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 6:39 pm
by SHimmer45
moltenmaniac wrote:thanks for the offer the-elf, i need both and a source of cheap pistons and rings would be good (if one exists!), freight to new zealand could be costly although ive never looked into it.
i didnt think a piston kit was that expensive, and they should last 10,000 miles, and anyway you will have sooo much fun between rebuilds :D

Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:05 am
by moltenmaniac
yeh i thought that might be the case, ill give it a miss i think. Piston kit costs around 700$NZ which is more than a weeks wages

Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 3:46 pm
by the-elf
I think it cost me less than £200 for a complete top end rebuild including new rings, pistons. little ends etc.