KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Just been thinking(steady on lad)and was wondering,would it be better to have a cylinder"tuned"before i send it for resleaving,or the other way round?
Should really get off me jacksy and get in touch with PJME,but been as i is on the computer,thought i would ask you's lot.
Thanks.

Resleeve then Tuning.

The sleeve will come as a 'generic' size and any tuning mods will need doing to it afterwards.

Hope that helps.

Darren - WightWizard.

PS. Would be interested to find out resleeving prices when you know?

Just been on there web site and its has you say Darren.
Prices are very resonable i think.
£103 + VAT for a 125.
£130 + VAT for a 250.
Just google PJME,dont know why i did'nt do that before posting .

I hope you mean 'replate' not 're-sleeve' ? Repairers who recommend resleeving in Nicasil cylinders should be shot at dawn. Each and every time I have seen this the result is bad. An RGV with resleeved cylinder I know of will survive 1 pull through the gears before it grinds to a halt. Then when cool again runs untill it gets hot, fine if you want to tootle round out of band.
Modifing ports before or after replating is no problems.

on my last KR i had sleeves in and had no problems at all.. and that was used daily for commuting and giving it some stick at weekends, i wouldnt have a problem with a sleeve over a replate, but then mine was completely standard.

using good oil and not bouncing them off the red helps, im sure for racing bikes sleeves may be more problematic but then again a racing bike is under alot more stress than a road machine.

mine were done by PJ Engineering and was a great job recommend them to anyone

Hi Guys,

Well for my two penny's worth, the Nicasil recoat is the best route by not much.

I have experience (for what it's worth) of both sleeves and coatings and in my little world the sleeves have caused slighly more aggro, as referred to by Two Stroke Institute (Ta!), but not really enough for me to say that they are not worth doing. As you say SHimmer it depends on the use you put it to, how sympathetic you are mechanically, what oils you use, etc.

For clarity I'd say use a Nicasil for race or very hard use and Nicasil or sleeving for any other use (including most fast road stuff).

Thanks for your input guys!

Hope that helps.

Darren - WightWizard.

Put me right off a resleave TSI
The engine is gonna be for racing(track days)so its gonna live between 9 and 12 thou.
That makes me think plated with the above posts.
A bit more info-i have got 2 cylinders to play with.My thoughts were have them both resleaved,cause a rebore is cheaper than a reline,and there should be a good few of those per sleave.
Tune 1 to the limit.
Keep the other standard,so if the tuned one goes pop at the track,the standard 1 takes its place and i aint wasted too much of my day.
PJME say they use the resleave in go carts that rev upwards of 20 thou,so i thought that should be good enough for me.
Another thing,the 2 cylinders i have got,1 is a mitaka and the other is aprillia,is there any differance?
Thanks.

Most kart cylinders accept liners and have excess cooling capacity. I have yet to see a cylinder that didn't ping it's head off every time it gets hot, when a liner is put into a nicasil cylinder.Road,mx and trail might be better in the UK
If forced to do that I would have it torque plate bored/honed and a 0.01 taper on the bore bottom to top.
A single non gearbox engine isn't the same creature as your 122/123 engine. Had enough bad seizures with plated cylinders, usualy piston is toast and any ali on the nicasil disappears with some muriatic acid and a cotton bud.
I have never seen a Mitaka in the flesh, either cylinder can do with some help.

hi gary just a tip use premix in your rs if its for the track the oil pump is not the best on those under hard use. just had to replace the barrel and piston on my sons after the pump failed.
ade.