finally started

[dougindoors]

I am pretty sure the noise was caused by the rear damper as when i restriped the motor again it was solid no movement at all, so i stripped down the dampers this time the rear one was full of rust, which goes back the the first strip when i found the outer seal running surfaces corroded with rust, i know the bike had stood for a while in aus, probally rain water got down the carbs, the splines on both cranks are good as are the internal splines on the dampers. as for the front crank seal leaking by that was my fault for not renewing the main bearings at the same time as the seals last time. i found play in one of the front mains, being lazy dont pay. i will be getting back on the reassembly trip as soon as i finish a cbr600 benetton coloured rocket ship. as i said last year she, should be ready for next summer lol

[nigb]

If the splines on the crank are good then it should be fine as mine were visibly worn. It was when I had the dampers assembled on the cranks that I realised I could rock the damper back & forth slightly with a small audible metallic sound. Obviously at idle this sound would amplify but under throttle go away as the splines are then loaded continually on one side.
One other thing to check is the inserts the main bearings seat in that form part of the crankcase - they can actually get play in them too.
Also a couple of the engines I stripped the outer races of the main bearings were loose in the housings (damper side) If the play is too excessive it can cause crank to runout allowing seals to leak.
Good luck with the rebuild - you wont regret it as it is a great bike to ride.

[dougindoors]

well thanks for all the tips, i shall check and double check every thing this time, i really dont want to be pulling it apart again, although i could probally do it blind folded now, only need the manual for tightening torques lol i'll let you know by pm how it goes cheers

[miuganlee]

Good..

[dougindoors]

well afer a stressy week, finally started to put the engine back together, i didnt realise its been nearly a year since i stripped it. well the bugger wont go back together, the crankcase halfs will not close, had it apart about 6 times, just could'nt work it out. even removed the crank bearings from one side but still no! had the gearbox out, every think ok there, then my wife bought me a beer, so rolled a ciggy and had a sup, then it dawned on me. front and rear cranks in the right holes but silly old sod, i had put them in the wrong way 180 degrees out, that was after 5 hours of wacking and swearing. so out with the cranks off with the bearing put it as it should be and bingo fell together. at that point i thought your up 1 so walked away till tomorrow, one good evenings work and the engine should be in and hopefully next weekend running. if the bugger gives me any more crap like burning gearbox oil watch ebay lol. wait for the next installment

[dougindoors]

after words with the missis last night, mucho progress made today, almost a whole day in the garage, wonders happen when you dont talk lol., engine is in, reassembled, with the all important new head gasket. i will say the gasket sets from ebay fit perfect, battery on charge and tomorrow fill with oil, fuel and keep my fingers crossed, lol. if theres any trouble i will be selling her and all the spares as a job lot, you never know might even get my money back! after 4 years of work i'm finally wearing thin, i will paint her and fit the new seat cover (red) and decals so she will be sort of finished. all that needs doing is obtaining age cert, mot ect. we will see hopefully pics posted of her running !!!!!!

[Top-shaggy]

Well I've just re-read this thread from the start again and it's great.. Don't give up, I'm really looking forward to seeing your KR250A back on the road

[dougindoors]

thanks for the words of encoragement, but it does wear you down, the bike and the missus lol. its just been a lot of work and time, if the engine still plays up, i really can not be arsed to strip it again, so if she goes the lucky buyer will have a new gasket set to fit as i bought 2 just in case, well i will let you all know tomorrow, as they say shit or bust. i want my bike bench back lol. still looking for a decent pic of a nacked woman to post

[dougindoors]

not much tonight, friends round but sneaked down the garage and put the coolant in . oh! and bought a new in the box set of piston rings from south africa, tipped off by my mate greg in aus £7.00 + £5.00 shipping dont really need them but couldnt resist a bargain, Tim i think i need help!!!! do i really need more bits, already have 2 spare pistons and barrels c/w head. will always be handy if u break a set supose

[StrokerBoy]

dont really need them but couldnt resist a bargain, Tim i think i need help!!!!

Not at all, perfectly sensible behaviour that. If you don't need 'em, you'll be able to help out a fellow KR owner in the future.

[dougindoors]

video on youtube running well sort of carbs not set up yet, but abit still got the clatter from clutch rear crank area any ideas, same noise as last time, no evidence inside engine of cause, bugger, bugger, bugger.
http://youtu.be/97MljTE2aQ8

[Top-shaggy]

video on youtube running well sort of carbs not set up yet, but abit still got the clatter from clutch rear crank area any ideas, same noise as last time, no evidence inside engine of cause, bugger, bugger, bugger.
http://youtu.be/97MljTE2aQ8

Now this may be a long long shot... But I've had this before on the AR125's.
Play can develop in the clutch housing.

Clutch housing, part number 13095 on diagram below has a rubber damper between the outer and inner face. It is sandwiched between the front gear face and rear clutch plate holder and held in place by approx five or six rivets.

The rubber damper wears out and play develops causing a rocking motion when the clutch is idling. This makes a clanging noise which goes away once you give it a few revs.

It's common on many AR125s and in the main does no real damage - it's just annoying.

The rubber damper is not replaceable / serviceable unless you know an engineer that can remove and replace the rivets. I know someone that tried to get this repaired at Faron Engineering and after 7 months he gave up. I gave him a replacement that cured it.

The gear meshing on the clutch can also be a little tight and add to the clanging with a whiring noise. Again in the main just annoying and not a significant problem.

Like I said its a long shot but as the engine has a lot in common with the AR, it's worth considering as it sounds just the same..

[dougindoors]

found it!!!! =D> little bit of wear on the crank splines were they fit the dampers and the clutch damper gear has 2-3mm movement if you place a screwdiver between the gears and twist, tim could you ask your japenese friends if they have any tolerences on that gear, or does any one else on here know. the manuals a bit thin on info like that, cheers in advance. oh i'm so happy think i'm gonna pee myself, and its not my age! now just have to find a solution [-o<

[dougindoors]

Now we know y have the name top shaggy you should change it to top man. cheers

[nigb]

Doug as I said in my earlier post it is the crank splines that seem to wear not the splines in the gear itself. I did try some special loctite product that seemed to work for a while but in the end I made some cranks up from the later models with redesigned dampers. It is amazing how a small amount of play in a spline can amplify. There might be other products around that can take up the play