My race bike

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:50 pm

After my last race, I decided to make some changes to my bike, which started with getting it stripped right down to bare essentials.

I personally have never liked the rear sub frame and as I don't race around with a pillion passenger, decided to shave some material off and reduce it.

I have also gone to a late R6 shock, which has given me a much stiffer rear end, as I found the standard KR-1S shock, way too soft, even when fully stiff.

I've lowered the forks through the yokes and set them at 5mm to give me a slightly higher ride height at the front to balance out the additional ride height gained at the rear by fitting the R6 shock.
I toyed around with different dog bones, but keeping the standard dog bones was the best configuration.

The clip-ons are 25mm lower than standard to change my riding position and the forks have been given a service.

Because of the height of the new rear shock, I will be redesigning the air box this week to compensate for this.

Bodywork will once again be different to the standard, going for a more GP look and feel.

Tel · Post by **Tel** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 1:41 pm

Because of the height of the new rear shock, I will be redesigning the air box this week to compensate for this.

This looks like a very neat job - mines well hacked aboot!!

viewtopic.php?t=4684&highlight=output+shaft+seal

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:26 pm

That is a very neat job, but I'm going for a fully enclosed design, housing the carbs with their velocity stacks too, so need to build it from scratch.

JanBros · Post by **JanBros** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:33 pm

I'd put in a 17" rear. the R6 shock is too long, needs some compensation

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:47 pm

JanBros wrote:I'd put in a 17" rear. the R6 shock is too long, needs some compensation

That's part of the longer term plan, but I have decent 18" tyres, which I cannot afford to replace at the moment, nor can I afford the 17" wheels.

Eventually, I'll be possibly going to an RGV banana swing arm, so this conversion will all take place at the same time.

scooble · Post by **scooble** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:06 pm

RGV arms are going for silly money now, however, over on the PB forum, someone has managed to fit an R6 swinger into an RGV frame, apparently without too much trouble

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:41 pm

scooble wrote:RGV arms are going for silly money now, however, over on the PB forum, someone has managed to fit an R6 swinger into an RGV frame, apparently without too much trouble

You're not kidding. I saw a VJ22 swing arm go for £245 on eBay the other week and it wasn't that great.

I have decided to buy an entire bike to break it for the bits I want and sell the rest on as parts to make my money back.

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:23 pm

Starting to get to a state where it is almost ready to be fired up.

I have created a new air box and under tray to hold the battery, CDI and fuse box. The radiator needs connecting up and I still have the brackets to make for the rearsets.

scooble · Post by **scooble** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:27 pm

where did you get the velocity stacks?
can you show us a close up of the airbox?
like the stubby subframe, gives it a pukka racer look

fred · Post by **fred** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:43 pm

fair play ,well done ,some graft put in there

Post by **alimorg** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:02 am

Are you having lights? If not why not get rid of the battery?
here is a kit for it on eBay but you can just use a capacitor by following the instructions HERE
Cheers
Al

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:40 am

This is the only picture I have, I can take some more at the weekend.

I bought the velocity stacks a while ago on eBay, can't remember how much I paid or who they were from.

I also remembered about your KIPS linkages today

Howie · Post by **Howie** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:23 pm

like the stubby subframe, gives it a pukka racer look

Yep me too

here is a kit for it on eBay but you can just use a capacitor by following the instructions HERE

That's a neat looking piece of kit. Anyone using one?

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:53 pm

It looks even better with the bodywork on, but I still need to make the front fairing and clock mount up, so no pictures of the fairing on just yet, only the tail piece.

I'm going to extend the side panel to cover that piece of the sub frame, but keep it open above that line between the tank, to use as an air supply for the airbox.

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:02 pm

here is a kit for it on eBay but you can just use a capacitor by following the instructions HERE

That's a neat looking piece of kit. Anyone using one?

I use a battery eliminator on my tzr250 2ma, lights are very dim under about 3000rpm and i have noticed that when overtaking etc. with indicators on when i reach about 10000rpm the indicators no longer flash, they just stay on, other than that no problems, passes an mot with it on fine too!

Good weight saving as it weighs about 80grams in comparison to a battery.

The bike is looking good luders!