KR-1S.co.uk Forum

OK, so I mounted up the engine, fitted the clutch and gear linkage.

The clutch won't disengaged fully. I've adjusted it to the maximum, but it doesn't quite seem to pull the clutch clear. I'm going to take the gaskets off and see if that improves things. Also the cable won't stay in the housing on the engine.

But a more serious concern is the gearbox. After fitting the gear linkage, I went to try and change gear but it won't even click. It takes a lot of pressure on it till it finally moves, but even then it doesn't feel like it's actually changing gear.

The gearbox is from a different engine, probably an earlier model, would this affect it? When I fitted it, the selector drum was properly aligned, the studs were seated in the selector drum and everything turned round when the crank turned.

Any suggestions where I should start?

raw1981 wrote: Any suggestions where I should start?

take it back out , ain't that much work.

leaving the gasket out isn't going to help a lot. have you checked the clutchrod that goes inside for wear, especialy the flat parts where it pushes against the clutch ?

The clutch rod doesn't have much wear on it, looks pretty good.

I'll get the gearbox out and have a look.

Cheers

I built two gearboxes from the ground up recently. I made sure to take my time and meticulously studies all of the exploded diagrams in the fiches section.
I did find when I was assembling it on the bench that the selector fork rollers fell out a few times which made trying to rotate the shifter drum very difficult. The Shifter drum also has a locating pin that needs to line up perfectly with the odd looking star wheel. The whole assembly work much better when its in the crankcases as each end of the shafts are fully supported, but it is possible to manually crank it on the bench if you do it slowly.
I also found that the star wheel cam follower return spring was a pain to fit (pinged off a few times which resulted in me scrabbling round on the garage floor muttering to myself).
Getting the GBox assy into the crankcase without touching the fresh yama bond was a bit like playing that kids game operation.
Once it was in, there was a bit of shaking about to get the whole cassette to sit right before tightening up the bolts.
ensure that you have the correct number of clutch plates, that the dished spring ring is the right way round and that the final clutch plate fits into the right grooves in the clutch basket.
I also noticed when assembling the 5 pointed clutch pressure plate, that my one didn't line up exactly, so when I tightened it up, one of the arms snapped - they're known to be a bit brittle. Luckily, Charles supplied one of his Billet CNC ones for an attractive price.
Also noticed when I fitted the round clutch cover that houses the cylindrical activation mechanism (the one with the flat on one side), that the cylinder wasn't pushed down quite far enough and I couldn't pull the clutch lever in. I took it off again and gave it a soft knock with a plastic hammer to ensure that it seated properly.
Also note that KR1 selector forks were known to be a bit dodgy. KR1S ones were upgraded.

a spot of grease on the selector fork rollers helps keep em in place.

raw1981 wrote:The gearbox is from a different engine, probably an earlier model, would this affect it?

If it's a KR1 gearbox going into a KR1S, then maybe. If memory serves me correctly, your ok as long as you don't mix & match parts from both gearboxes trying to make one good one.

I took the gearbox out, had a look and everyting seemed to be in order.

There was a spacer missing from the selector return lug, found it, put it in, and the gearbox no works fine.

The clutch however, remains baffling. I've fitted it, adjusted the cable, taken it all the way to maximum, but it still won't disengage properly.

When I put it back in after taking the gearbox out I checked and double checked the manual in case there were any similar errors, but it's complete and in the way it should be.

what if I adjust the return springs?

is the clutch case in good order ? no too big marks on, the sides off the plates hitting it ? plates can get stuck if they've created too big "holes" in these "holes"