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Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 11:10 pm
by JanBros
scooble wrote:sorry Jan, don't have any dimensions. I was thinking from the point of view that VHM inserts are off the shelf for a number of models, therefore, if possible, may only require half the machining. Outstanding work by the way, good to see the resourceful KR spirit alive and kicking which is sadly lacking on many other forums
Well, I definitly thinck you are better off making them yourself (if you have a lath).
making the insert really is by far the easiest and cheapest part of it. I bought an aluminium bar, 80mm diameter from which I can make 5 or 6 inserts, for 20 euro. 1 blind VHM set's you 29.90 back.
Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:17 am
by boredus
Hi Jan,
Have you got an oring on the top of the insert? sorry been through the thread but didnt see any mention of it.
Nice work by the way. I remember a thread once where someone was trying to get new heads cast? think it was M Jordan.
How are you going to brace the head themselves? as you have taken a lot of material out they may crack in half with the vibrations.
Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:58 am
by JanBros
boredus wrote:Hi Jan,
Have you got an oring on the top of the insert? sorry been through the thread but didnt see any mention of it.
Hi,
long time
still happy in RGV-land
here you can see the the groove, but not fitted the ring :
How are you going to brace the head themselves? as you have taken a lot of material out they may crack in half with the vibrations.
I'm not
time will tell
Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 11:36 pm
by JanBros
finaly the last seals came in, and putted the engine fully together for the first time. everything is spot on, except on one cylindre, the squish is about 0.05-0.1mm to small. so just need to adjust that and reay to go in the frame. me very happy
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:10 am
by falconman
Looks good!! I have been wanting to do that but been afraid to cut on a good head. Can't wait to see how it runs!! =D> =D>
Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 7:12 am
by JanBros
fitted electrics and exhausts on the bike, squirted some brake claener in the carbs, and the engine fired up
Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:44 pm
by JanBros
had to put on another loom ( see
viewtopic.php?t=6402 ), but now engine is running/revving ok - haven't ridden it yet though. Started 3rd kick
Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 1:17 pm
by JanBros
first couple of runs down the street and first time heated properly.
only one KIPS-valve is leaking a bit of water, so not a design-problem, but more a local problem (I hope
)
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 12:53 pm
by JanBros
fixed the leaky KIPS-valve : redisigned the inserts for the O-rings arround the KIPS-valves so I could use thicker rings (1.5mm instead off 1mm) and now the leaking had stopped
but then another problem came up : when revving the engine, from midrange on, it was sucking in big amounts of water, you could see the level drop in the radiator
Taking of the head several times, I couldn't find anything wrong, so took of the cylindres and found the problem
Since the exhaust ports were already slightly higher, and the lower piston meant they were again 1mm higher, I wanted to use as thin gaskets as possible, so I made some out of plain printer-paper (only 0.1mm thick).
So I went back to original gasket's (read : out of cerial-box cardbourd, about 0.6-0.7mm) and now everything is fine
So me very happy : apart from one leaky KIPS-valve everything works fine from a first attempt ( =D> to myself
).
Shame the thicker gasket messes up my squish and compretion ratio, but gonna run the engine as it is right now and put sme miles on it to see if everything stays ok
Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:30 pm
by JanBros
First run on the streets yesterday. just looked at the topic with by broken transfer boost port : I haven't ridden my stroker since may 2009
anyway : after 5 minutes I already had a big smile inside my helmet and it lasted long after I came back home
Damned, don't know how I managed without it for almost 3 years. Won't happen again
Since it's been so long, I have no real comparison to how my KR ran before, but my first guess it run's very good. tacho wasn't working properly (acewell) so have no indication yet of rev's, but it comes on pretty strong from about 7.000 (as usual), and higher up the rev's it gives another strong boost, allthough I feel like it needs some heat inside the pipe to really kick ass.
as far as the engine : all water was still inside the radiator, KIPS were dry so looks like I did a decent job
Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 7:19 pm
by JanBros
did about 400km monday, and found a small crack at the cylindre mount.
So I guess I did a good job and have a strong motor
No water leaks and engine is still running beautifully, so will have to find a pro to have it welded.
Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:01 pm
by fred
well done thats a great result ,very tidy,and all done without cnc =D> thats a very coincidental crack ,shouldnt be any hastle to get welded ,i picked this up earlier in the year
viewtopic.php?t=8207&highlight=
same thing in the video
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 10:29 pm
by JanBros
after about 1100 km's, had another waterleak, but it looks like the O-ring wasn't totaly in it's groove and slightly damaged, and gave up after some tome.
so still no design error up until now
Re: head inserts in original KR1-head
Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 11:17 am
by scooble2
I have one of these CNC head kits, but I lost the accompanying instruction document that included the instructions on how to make the new KIPS seal inserts.
Does anyone have a link to the document, is it on this site?
Re: head inserts in original KR1-head
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 11:06 pm
by JanBros