KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Hi All--i`ve suddenly lost all my ignition sparks---bike was running in garage and began to rev up and down on its own with a fixed throttle and then stopped running--thats the last time it would start two weeks ago.
been running through the manual trying to prove out power from the battery and have 12v to the orange cable on the cdi unit---what colours come back out and to where please?
stator and pickup coil proved out ok in spec along with the ignition coil and ht leads but what part does the diode play-i get 300 ohms on all pins one way but zero on all pairs in reverse.
i have also put on an extra earth lead from engine to frame --still nothing.
I am no electrician---any assistance pleeeeease ?

Have you tested your sidestand switch?
Cheers
AL

hi there--don`t have a sidestand switch--its been looped out on the loom connector since i`ve had it--never been a problem.
i`ve also lost red and green dash lights.

Ah right then check the connector under the engine, that sometimes causes flakey instument lights
Cheers
AL

al-when you say connector under the engine do you mean the neutral switch with the green wire attached?

just been looking at the wiring diagram.

only possible thing I guess is that your neutral switch isn't working any more (or there is a problem in it's wiring).

it's the only thing that makes sence when :
-you have no ignition (because the CDI thinks you are not in neutral)
- your neutral/oil lights do not work

hi jan-if the neutral switch is faulty will it take out the oil light as well?

it's been a couple of years since I've had a KR1 with original dash + idiot lights, but from memory :

yes, when switching on the ignition switch, both oil and neutral should light up, even if the oil tank is full. It is to indicate you that the oil-light is still working.

thanks jan i`ll check both off those out today
if anyone has the answer i still need to know if the diode on the rectifier plate is a part of the ignition syatem cos i get one way readings on the pins/

NOSHER wrote:al-when you say connector under the engine do you mean the neutral switch with the green wire attached?

Thats the one!
Cheers
AL

thanks al-i`ll check that out along with jan`s pointer with the oil light wiring----any answers on the diode question?

Iam sure when i changed my diode, it was because of a problem with with lights/indicators. I had to wait about 4 weeks for a new one they had run out of them in Europe. But that was 2 years ago.
Try this link?


viewtopic.php?t=3113&highlight=diode

Got my red and green dash lights back--eerrrr another craft moment ,after all the tests with the switch and continuity etc its a good idea to make sure bike is in NEUTRAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Still got no ignition spark though.
Is it possible to test the outputs of the cdi unit? the orage cable going in is the ignition should all the others be giving a 12volt signal out ? gotta ride this bike before the sun disappears!!!!!!!!!

Bugger me---its up and running again!!!!!!!
After finding my mistake with the dash lights n/w(put it in neutral u twonk) I made up 6 short connector leads so that I could check the 6 pin connectors while powered up with the terminals exposed for the multitester to contact the pins for a reading.Decided for some reason to prod the kickstart and it started!!!!I can only assume that the slightly thicker male pins and the new female connectors on the link leads had scraped the corrosion from the plug contacts of the diode and its 6 pin lead enabling the ignition circuit.
By the way in the 15years I`ve had it its never never started with one prod and half choke so its a mega result for me.
Took the opportunity as the system is now working to check out my 3 spare regulators 3 spare coils and spare kr1s cdi which were fleabay purchases from years ago of unknown quantity which have all proved out as fit for use when required so another result
THANKS TO ALI/JAN BROS/AND 375 FOR THE CONTACTS AND SUGGESTION --MUCH APPRECIATED FELLAS.

That's a good result nosher.
Just make sure to test the voltage output at higher revs on those ebay regs. When they fail, they stop restricting the voltage and can end up sending 18v or more through the sytem when the revs are up which will fry your tacho and cdi.
When I tested my spares I found 3 out of the 8 I had at the time were faulty.