KR-1S.co.uk Forum

got my new China made YFZ450 radiator today :





so here is a comparison between an original KR1, a TDM850 and the YFZ450 radiator :

from left to right : TDM KR YFZ







dimensions :

KR1 :
34.5 x 23.5 x 3
core : 26 x 22 x 1.5 -> "volume" core 858 mm³
17 rows


TDM850 :
39.5 x 19.5 x 4
core : 30 x 18.5 x 3 -> "volume" core : 1665 mm³
14 rows


YFZ50 :
39.5 x 18 x 5
core : 30.5 x 16.5 x 4 -> "volume" core : 2013 mm³
17 rows

"core volume" is much mich bigger than original, and significantly bigger than TDM radiator.

fitting is easy : a simple bracket over the 2 original bolts on top, with in the middle a M6 nut welded on et voila (It's been years I'm running without the lower bracket to te head, and don't thinck I need one now).



standard top hose fit's, you just need a longer for the bottom.

Looks great, and at 60 euro's for the radiator, 20 euro for shipping and 15 euro custon's, a bargin

Looks good to me!

Do you have a link to the seller please Janbros?

Dan

Me too, looks like a great mod that Rad.
Link please Jan

Would it fit inside a standard fairing ok Jan?

Howie wrote:Would it fit inside a standard fairing ok Jan?

I'll test it

the guy I bought it from is asi performance on ebay . he sells all over the world, but all are send from China, so just check where they are cheapest. I bought the YFZ rad in australia, together with a top VFR400 rad in the USA.

but type "YFZ450 rad*" in ebay, and you'll see there are others who sell them to

JUST REMEMBER mr VAT/CUSTOMS/ROYALMAIL may want a pound of flesh for the friends in the UK

fred wrote:this is a big ask , what do i need ,bearing and seals wise ,i can`t read the part numbers on the picture ,

Next mod you could plumb in an Auxillary Water Pump from a Audi/VW/BMW (there's like 3 electric low current and light weight variants/configurations (inlet/outlet))
and a cheap [£8] Pulse Width Modulation DC speed controller (no need for thermistors/thermocouples/temperature switching just a manual flow control)
and remove and blank the standard water pump impellor/drive (one less thing to leak)

some credit goes to SCOOBLE for use of Kawasaki in her KFX450 quad radiator
I still want want to try a split system like MX (but in vertical V) that would allow air duct between (above mudguard) and down middle of bike
(also needs separate heads/thermostat relocation)

KR-1R wrote: JUST REMEMBER mr VAT/CUSTOMS/ROYALMAIL may want a pound of flesh for the friends in the UK

Good point KR1R - I'm always getting stung by Royal Mail looking after the interests of UK Customs!

took her out yesterday : temperature stays arround the first mark on the left off the gauge. as soon as it passes the mark, the thermostat opens and the temp drops almost immediatle back to just below. Even after a couple of miles with lot's off throttle.
so that means the engine temp stays arround the thermostat opening degree +-66 °

when I got home, I couldn't lay my hand on the left side of the radiator, but I could on the right side and keep it there. So it does a pretty good job
=D>

KR-1R wrote: some credit goes to SCOOBLE for use of Kawasaki in her KFX450 quad radiator

true =D>

For people in the UK who want one of these radiators this guys sells them and is based in the UK so no customs fees =D>

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140735269127? ... 439wt_1396

I've bought one and its been dispatched so I'll let you know when it arrives.

£82 posted!

Dan

I got one of those for my NC30 and I must say, for the price they look very good

tried a fairing, but was too laisy to take off my steer which was in the way .

I guess it can fit, but the radiator will touch the fairing I thinck. best to glue some rubber on the fairing or radiator so they don't rub and damage each other.

Hi guys!

Finally got round to fitting the rad today i'll post up some pics tomorrow.

Dan

Right!

This is the long and short of it, I fitted the rad with a set of roose motorsport coolant hoses for the KR, they fit fine. I mounted the bottom of the rad on the stock lower mount and made a small triangular plate to mount the top of the rad to the standard top mount.

The radiator is close to being a little too low. (In regard to the high point in the cooling system no longer being in the radiator). But it is just about ok.

This also creates more room for a scoop for a force fed box over the top of the rad if anyone is looking at that route

Pics:









Fairing fitment wise. You might need to cut 5mm off the part of the fairing that forms the radiator channel if that makes sense? I haven't got a picture to demonstrate sadly.

Obviously people with oem fairings will not want to cut their fairing, but I'm going to cut mine

Haven't ridden the bike yet so can't comment on running temps.
Dan

Dan
Your powervalve looks as it has twisted and is not aligned correctly.