KR-1S.co.uk Forum

All
I am having this idea of changing my KR1S to a race bike here in Denmark.

Before jumping into it I would like to learn a bit of your experience in doing that.

I have never done this and will do it myself - being a taught Volvo mechanic in the late 70'ies...

My KR1S is 100% original and street legal. It from 1990 and has 17000 km on the tacho.

Looking forward to your kind assistance.

Greetings for Denmark
Peter

Hello Peter,

I would be happy to give you all the information you require, but would advise you look around and see if you can pick up a knackered KR to convert, or one that has already been on the track.

Your KR would be worth more in its current state than as a race bike.

Have a think a bit more and let us know.

Hello Luders

I was a bit afraid of a reply like yours. But in Denmark we don't have nor see (m)any KR1S at all.
I have given it a thought - might take an intermediate step and prepare it for some track days for licensed bikes.
What to look out for in the preparation for this?
Much appreciated
Peter

Luders wrote:Hello Peter,

I would be happy to give you all the information you require, but would advise you look around and see if you can pick up a knackered KR to convert, or one that has already been on the track.

Your KR would be worth more in its current state than as a race bike.

Have a think a bit more and let us know.

I would suggest any alterations are non premanant, so it can be easily restored for road, should you wish to do so at a later date.

First thing to do, is get hold of some after market race body work.

Disconnect the lights etc, but leave all the connectors tied up neatly.

I would suggest you remove the expansion tank, oil tank and speedo.

You will need to remove the side stand and close the circuit for the stand inhibitor.

Get yourself some Bridgestone BT090's and ensure your suspension is in good working order, perhaps go for a slightly heavier fork oil.

You will also need to mount a "shark fin" to your swing arm, to protect your hand from whizzing round the chain and rear sprocket in the event of a crash.

That's enough to get the bike ready for the track, with the exception of the engine.

I would recommend you just flow your crank cases to start off with, lockwire your oil filler, gearbox drain plug and remove the oil pump drive gear from the clutch outer casing, so you can run it on pre-mix.
You can leave the pump connected to act as a blanking device for the drive hole.
Fit heavier clutch springs and fit a larger radiator (RGV VJ22 radiator is a good starting point to improving the cooling).

Those are the basics and is plenty for you to be getting on with.

There are more improvements you can make to the engine, but you'll get more benefit from improving the suspension and getting a 17" rear wheel.

See how you get on and if you decide it's what you want to do for sure, you can start developing the engine further and making the changes to the suspension.

why would you remove the expansion tank ? I'd say : definitly don't, especialy with a standard rad.

and change the rubber oil lines for braided ones !

If I were you, I'd buy an RGV to wreck on track, we don't care if you ruin that one

To save weight, as I also suggested upgrading the radiator, this is a must.

Brake lines left off in error, that should have been on my list.

Luders

I can see this will be bit of a winter project. Thank you verymuch for the information.
I have one question; What do you meen by "flow your crank cases"?
Cheers
Peter

Luders wrote:I would suggest any alterations are non premanant, so it can be easily restored for road, should you wish to do so at a later date.

First thing to do, is get hold of some after market race body work.

Disconnect the lights etc, but leave all the connectors tied up neatly.

I would suggest you remove the expansion tank, oil tank and speedo.

You will need to remove the side stand and close the circuit for the stand inhibitor.

Get yourself some Bridgestone BT090's and ensure your suspension is in good working order, perhaps go for a slightly heavier fork oil.

You will also need to mount a "shark fin" to your swing arm, to protect your hand from whizzing round the chain and rear sprocket in the event of a crash.

That's enough to get the bike ready for the track, with the exception of the engine.

I would recommend you just flow your crank cases to start off with, lockwire your oil filler, gearbox drain plug and remove the oil pump drive gear from the clutch outer casing, so you can run it on pre-mix.
You can leave the pump connected to act as a blanking device for the drive hole.
Fit heavier clutch springs and fit a larger radiator (RGV VJ22 radiator is a good starting point to improving the cooling).

Those are the basics and is plenty for you to be getting on with.

There are more improvements you can make to the engine, but you'll get more benefit from improving the suspension and getting a 17" rear wheel.

See how you get on and if you decide it's what you want to do for sure, you can start developing the engine further and making the changes to the suspension.

I'm flowing some more cases in the next week or two, so will photograph the steps for you on this thread.

Essentially "flowing" is taking excess material off the inlet side of the cases, to provide a more efficiant flow of air/fuel mixture, to enhance performance.

Thank you - looking forward to it.
Peter

Yep, me too.

I just want to flow the cases on my Kr1s project (road use)

I'm pretty sure Maccas did a thread on here but I can't find it

Anyway, any chance of some pics of your Kr Peter?

Would like to download some pictures - just cannot figure it out...
Peter

If you go to the chit chat section, there is a 'sticky' on how to post pics

You'll need a photobucket account or similar, download the pics to there & then you can post them on here.

Not sure why it has to be done that way

A few pictures...

http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t516/Peter4180/

I've made a start this evening, which obviously started with removing the gearbox and splitting the crankcase.

I'll take some pictures of what I'm doing with the top half of the cases tomorrow.

Luders wrote:To save weight, as I also suggested upgrading the radiator, this is a must.

so you top of your rad every time before you go out ?