KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Hi Guys, putting my KR1-S I bought recently back together, it hasn't been run since 2007, and went to start, nothing, checked connections and found the 20A Fuse blown, had a spare so replaced and tried to start and its blown again. the loom was all connected when I got it, less kill switch, ignition switch and the connector from the pick up coils. Had a brief look at the connectors but can't see anything obvious, although as a race bike bits of the loom are chopped and the road connectors (lights etc) aren't connected. Any ideas?

I had a similar problem a few years ago, but because it was a few years ago, I'm struggling to remember what was causing it.

I think it was something to do with the front brake light switch in my case.

I removed my entire loom last year and stripped it all right back to the bare essentials, removing all ignition switch and wiring it via the kill switch to on/off.

Have you got anything like switches like that left on the bike?

Its still got the ignition switch, and practically all the road connectors. Wiring it to the kill switch is something I'm after doing eventually. Going to get some more 20a fuses and disconnect everything and start a proces of illimination!

Does it blow instantly?

turn on the ignition then a couple of seconds and it blows. Do you have an idea?

Mine never did that, I'll look at the wiring diagram and see if that jogs my memory.

What colour wires are coming from that fuse which is blowing?

white & white/red

rgv mike wrote:turn on the ignition then a couple of seconds and it blows. Do you have an idea?

There's definately a short to ground there somewhere. Try checking where all the factory kill and cut-out switches were for any damage or wrongly setup bypass's. I'd also check the ignition switch itself, and anywhere the main power feeds through (like the rec\reg and stator).

As Scott suggests, that white wire runs to your rectifier and ignition switch, so give them a trace and see what you find.

will do its just done it with everything but the ignition switch and kill switch disconnected.

Have a look at the kill switch. If it's not that your problem is with the ignition switch somehow.

You might want to use this as an excuse to strip the loom right back and hot wire it to the kill switch.

One thing to bear in mind, the kill switch is opposite to a normal switch, so when in the run position, the contacts are broken.

So if I cut the wires, and wire brown and white together and red and red/white together then everything will just be run off to kill switch? I dont physically need to wire anything to the kill switch do I?

There should be a red and yellow/red wire connected to the kill switch.

These need to be broken in order for the bike to run, so I think I just cut them short, added a couple of connectors to insulate and prevent any short circuits and taped them up.

I then cut the ignition wires and ran them to the kill switch.

It was a combination of white - white/brown and red/white - red

hot wired it, twisted white and brown and red and red/white second kick she fired up! When I stripped the ignition barrel there was a lot of evidence of shorting. Thanks for the advice guys, just need to sort the brakes out and she's ready for the track

Mark Jordan ran his ignition wires to the light switch and left the kill switch alone, so that's one option.

Glad you found the fault.

It looks like I might be racing at Cadwell next month now. Will know for sure in two weeks time.

What do you need to do to the brakes?