with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should doScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here?
1mm spacers
- daz680
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Currently building RC30 lookalike
- ScottaKR
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But wouldn't that leave the possibility that the bearings could be offset to one side in the wheel when fitting?daz680 wrote:with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should doScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here?
KR250 Tandem Twin (Naked)
KR1 Red/White
KR1S Track Bike (has been put on hold for now)
ZXR750 H1 (Winter project)
KR1 Red/White
KR1S Track Bike (has been put on hold for now)
ZXR750 H1 (Winter project)
- daz680
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No, the left hand bearing will sit against the cirlip that is beind the speedo driveScottaKR wrote:But wouldn't that leave the possibility that the bearings could be offset to one side in the wheel when fitting?daz680 wrote:with a spacer tube 2mm longer than the origional KR1 tube no other spacers or mods are required as everything will sit where it should doScottaKR wrote:How about 2x 1mm shims with the same OD as the bearings (and an ID that is larger than the OD of the spacer tube) along with a 2mm longer spacer tube? The washers could be installed before fitting the new bearings, holding them out the 2mm further in total that you require, and then you shouldn't have the speedo drive issue mentioned.
The shims may need a slight shamfer to match the shoulder where the bearings normally seat against, but other than that I think it'd be relatively straight forward.
Or have I missed something obvious here?
Currently building RC30 lookalike
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- daz680
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1mm-Stainless ... 4aae9abebe
Im sure they will make you what you want. And no i dont want to go for a ride
Im sure they will make you what you want. And no i dont want to go for a ride
I wish i knew something about KR's so i was like knowledgeable about them and everything like what you lot are
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Thanks very much guys, have fitted wheel today with 1s shaft and 10mm bearing and all feels tight without spacers, I've decided to do both options of shim/spacer and Dazs idea and try both, I will let you know when up and rolling. Really glad I'm on this forum with all the help
New to Forum, restoring a KR1...or should i say building from scratch
- JanBros
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whatever you do, make sure the wheel side with the circlip has a 1mm spacer. this is the only thing that stops the wheel going left-right. you may not be able to move the wheel by hand because the bearring isn't a loose fit, but you never know what can happen when fully loaded when riding.
My ultimate goal is to die young as late as possible !