from that heap i bought on ebay the best thing about it was the engine that was in it, thankfully it hasnt been blowen up or run till its dead, but has at some point belonged to a racer i guess... stripping it down to clean and rebuild ive found modified barrels and head (we seen these before) but i thought id take a few pics and show you the cases, they are definatly flowed and look much better, how affective i have no idea and wont find out till next year..... look at the intakes, there is a standard set of cases to compare.
here is the flowed are...
now comapre that with a standard set (okay to get a good shot you have left of one and right of the other but you get the idea) most noted where alll the sharp edges have gone..
now the inlet of a standard set
then the flowed cases..
Anyway this is the set of cases ill be using for next year as so far it all looks good..
1 x TDR250 Black
1 x TDR50 Blue
1 x TZR250 3MA
1 x TZ250 3YL
1 x TZ250 N (to be restored)
1 x TD3 (being rebuilt)
LOL i should think this is stan the man stuff.... it all seems to concentrace orund the top side!!! be intresting to see yours.. My Motor for next year is gona be a stinker i hope, if i can get 60HP rwhp ill be a very happy boy!!!
1 x TDR250 Black
1 x TDR50 Blue
1 x TZR250 3MA
1 x TZ250 3YL
1 x TZ250 N (to be restored)
1 x TD3 (being rebuilt)
like mj said, using filler such as devcon/jb weld allows you to flow the gas exactly were you want rather than thin areas been the limiting factor. filler also allows removed materiel to be replaced in a better direction as removing to much i beleive, can effect primary compression. the cases you have though, in my opinion at least should help you acheive 60 nags, providing you have a decent top arf! mj will know whats what as i was probably 10yr old when he first put bastard file to the kr's wee ports/cases etc!! if i had a digi cam i would post a pic or 2 but anyway, more or less copied a pic mark posted up.
oh yeah, looks like single ring piston? is it a tz item? just clocked what looks like were the locating peg sits at the back, my 26j pist6ons are in the same location
Yup single ring TZ piston, he had some spare yam ones in the box of bits but i havent got around to opening all that, found KR pistons rings clips gaskets heaps of spares so im well happy,,, here is a question for you then, Is it worth working with these cases? or should i start a fresh.. its no problem but if im gona do it i wana do it right... The idea behind the project is to get 60 reliable HP with some safe jetting.. the 300cc project has been binned after talking to countless people saying you lose the ziinnnnnngggggg... so its tuned 250 all the way!!!
1 x TDR250 Black
1 x TDR50 Blue
1 x TZR250 3MA
1 x TZ250 3YL
1 x TZ250 N (to be restored)
1 x TD3 (being rebuilt)
providing they are'nt fooked then if your after 60+hp i think the cases you showed will be capable of delivering the goods. do you have plenty of spare cases? if your not in a hurry then i would start with new cases using the pics mj posted at least you canfeel satisfied that yourbike is making good hp and you had a large part to play in acheiving it. i take it this is for race/trackday fun? i also think the 300 takes away some of the urgency from what ive heard. but i reckon a 300 kit could potentially make more hp/grunt than a tuned 250. but if i wanted grunt i would have a 1000!! yes, i reckon the cases would be adequate but you could get full potentiall with a new set/epoxy.
Aye i have plenty spares, With the EBAY bike i got the engine you see plus 2 other cases, and i got a set of elf too, so 3 spare sets, MMM, Ill have a look at MJ's im in no hurry, winter is long enough!! LOL the bike runs nice now but there is no evedance of a crank rebuild or replacement so its going to get a ground up rebuild this winter with flowed case barrels heads the new crank is already done and sitting on the bench in a bag of oil!!, !!
Then there is some cosmetic stuff to do..
1 x TDR250 Black
1 x TDR50 Blue
1 x TZR250 3MA
1 x TZ250 3YL
1 x TZ250 N (to be restored)
1 x TD3 (being rebuilt)
MMM intresting, do you not need those slots for reed cages etc? (Cant remember off hand!!) and what sort of filler is that? i have liquid metal filler it looks similar but not sure if i would use it in an engine!!!
Ah one more thing chaps. Can someone give me the name of a solution or fluid of sorts that will clean up the cases and other metal parts? you can see from my pics that there dirty and oily and one thing o want to do is make it like new?
Looks good MJ.. Will you bike at cadwell be running on a set up like this? will be intresting to see that go...
1 x TDR250 Black
1 x TDR50 Blue
1 x TZR250 3MA
1 x TZ250 3YL
1 x TZ250 N (to be restored)
1 x TD3 (being rebuilt)
I normally use JB Weld as it is rated at a stupid temperature and sticks like a limpet to a prepared surface.
Nowhere round here is stocking it at the moment so I have used B&Q metal putty
It is rated at 120°C with occasional use up to 150°C. This part of the engine doesn't get that hot so it is within the temperature range. Just got to find out if it sticks. Must say it is easier to use than JB Weld and goes off within about 10 mins.
Cool, mmm, ill have mine stripped completly by the end of the week, then its clean time before i start putting the motor back together, LOL all this to make sure its ready for next year LOL.....
Well spose i have plans over winter to make her look a bit nicer so i can use my time on that if the engine is sorted!!!
1 x TDR250 Black
1 x TDR50 Blue
1 x TZR250 3MA
1 x TZ250 3YL
1 x TZ250 N (to be restored)
1 x TD3 (being rebuilt)
when i purchased my recent tube(s) of JB weld the guy at the local shop said '' once that lot's gone it's gone as it's to be replaced by something else, probably explains difficulty in getting it mark? rc, i believe the gas flow's much better without all the obstructions, unless of course they happen to push gas towards transfer area rather than KHI's method, toward the flywheels! the cases in my bike look similar to the pics you posted mark, actually copied from the last pics i asked you for. your right about the JB weld been tricky to use as it seems to want to run every were! in the end common sense prevailed and i used small amounts which made things easier! very strong stuff if whats on the packet is anything to go by, dont understand why there getting shut of it?
We use devcon metal putty in engines, we use it predominantly in 4 stroke engine inlet ports to get the shape/size we want, its expensive but is rated to about 300 degrees i think and sticks like you know what to a blanket. You can get it from somewhere like Cromwell tools.
Jamie, as for cleaning your crankcases, if you want them to look like new, you can clean the oil off first then there is a guy up the road from us who does "aquablasting" which brings crankcases up like new with a real nice finish, we've done a few engines with this and it makes them look lovely!
sambdk wrote:
Jamie, as for cleaning your crankcases, if you want them to look like new, you can clean the oil off first then there is a guy up the road from us who does "aquablasting" which brings crankcases up like new with a real nice finish, we've done a few engines with this and it makes them look lovely!
cool, i started cleaning them BUT its a real pain, the oil comes off okay but they still look patchey and show there age, LOL....
Ill be working near home in a few weeks, i think ill get all me bits to gether and head over!!!.. But ill call ya sometime over the next week or so to confirm when... Do they need to be Completly free from oil and bits? like seals etc? and can they do covers and side casing?
1 x TDR250 Black
1 x TDR50 Blue
1 x TZR250 3MA
1 x TZ250 3YL
1 x TZ250 N (to be restored)
1 x TD3 (being rebuilt)
i should think this is stan the man stuff.... it all seems to concentrace orund the top side!!! be intresting to see yours.. My Motor for next year is gona be a stinker i hope, if i can get 60HP rwhp ill be a very happy boy!!!
