KR250 hard to start ?

[StrokerBoy]

If you've got a KR250 and never have any problems starting it then you're lucky. And unusual...

Mine's always been impossible to kickstart when the engine's warm, I always have to pushstart it instead. No problem when it's cold. It's very common - KR owners all over the world tell me the same thing, although some say it's the other way round (ie. difficult when cold).

Magazine roadtests have mentioned it too but no-one's agreed on a cause or cure. Until now...

The Japanese KR boys agree it's a common problem but the fix is well known over there. I don't really understand it - I guess it's something to do free-play in the timing. I'm gonna try it on mine soon and post the results on here.

Click here for solution

[col]

i dont understand it either,but i hope it works for you tim,
theresnothing more pityful than watching a man old enough to know better, weezing and gasping as he legs down the road desperately trying to look cool and bump start his bike.

[StrokerBoy]

theres nothing more pityful than watching a man old enough to know better, weezing and gasping as he legs down the road desperately trying to look cool and bump start his bike...

... on grass, in front of several hundred classic bike fans, who've gathered to see what all the kicking and swearing is all about.

[ScottaKR]

Well guys, in preperation for putting my bike on the road (and since I'm rebuilding the top-end allready) I've shimmed the ones for my bike as per the instructions.
I've gotta say though, it is a bit of a prick of a job unless you have a really good G-clamp to compress them so you can remove the circlip. There's a lot of stored force in those springs, and youll do your head in if you don't compress them first.
Once it's all apart, shimming is easy enough (if you can get some shims to do the job that is), as long as you have a set of dial vernier calipers (a cheap set is all you need) to measure it acurately.
Once youve shimmed them to spec, get that G-clamp back out to compress things enough to get that damn circlip back in place. If your using a vice (like I was stuck with ), youll have a lot of problems trying to manouver the circlip into place. I found putting it off to one side in the clamps leaves a bit more room to get the circlip in.

I wont be able to give you any before and after results as such, but hopefully I wont have to roll-start it when it's warm.

[StrokerBoy]

Nice one Scott.

Needless to say, I haven't got round to trying this on my bike yet. It's on the list of things to do, along with fixing the oil leak from the gearlever shaft and replacing the exhaust gaskets...

[ScottaKR]

Well, the bikes up and running now (after a miriad of little problems including a faulty CDI), and it runs like a dream.
It starts first kick, even when warm, and goes like the clappers when it comes on band but that's mainly due to the shaved head and ported barrels
Anyone haveing trouble with warm starts should DEFINATELY do it.
That means you too Tim! SLACKER

[StrokerBoy]

Anyone haveing trouble with warm starts should DEFINATELY do it. That means you too Tim! SLACKER

Guilty as charged...

I'm pleased it seems to do the trick though.

[KvikkS]

Hello

Old post I can see. Is this fix still "valid" ?
If so, any idea where to find the 0.8mm washer ?

Thanks in Advance