KR1 (1989) Nearly done

Matty21 · Post by **Matty21** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:14 pm

There she is!
Just need track body work

petrol, oil, new tyres, discs and new rev counter, renthal grips.

Let me know what you think,

Also im going to respray the bike myself with the race fairings i want black green and white so if you have any ideas for a paint scheme please speak up.

Bought my baby for £400 and the engine is sweet as a nut, its basically cosmetics. also the wheels are nearly new

Let me know what you think, also let me know about paint schemes

Thanks

Matty21 · Post by **Matty21** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:07 pm

Obv no one likes the look of my project which i havent started properly yet lol

Matty#21

ScottaKR · Post by **ScottaKR** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:58 pm

Hell, it looks like a good start to me.

At least yours runs

Are you just going to keep it stock, or are you going to mod it as you go?

As for paint schemes, I got no Idea.

Good luck mate

Matty21 · Post by **Matty21** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 1:19 pm

Cheers Scott.

aye it does run, veyr sweet, very reliable!

Also Il be keeping stock long as possible apart from paint, bodywork, tyres

then when i start racing il start to get stage 1 tuning moving up the way but reliability is more important atm

Cheers, Il keep posting pics on how far i get

Matty#21

nate · Post by **nate** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:36 pm

looks nice...

So you going to tune it yourself? or get SS to do it???

Nate

mgtkr1 · Post by **mgtkr1** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:13 pm

looks good matty, i dont blame you for concentrating on the cosmetics as the motor sounds good from what you said. i would be tempted to source another motor and rebuild it ready to swap should anything happen, especially if yer gonna race it. while your at it instead of going mad on tuning just get crank rebuil/pistons/rings etc and do minimal work yourself rather than pay for work you can do easily yourself. changing port heights/radical tuning that requires special tools/tuner is not neccesery and a stage 1 as you put it is simply cleaning up the ex port, getting rid of casting flaws/sharpen up the webs between the transfer tunnels/match the ex port using a ring of the same diameter as there often out by a considerable amount(enough to see if you look for it) match cases to barrels(not sure if it does anything but doesnt hurt) andf you can flow the cases, how much is up to you but at this stage i would strongly reccomend you keep it minimal for now, use epoxy at a later stage. mj did a thread on all the above inc pics and as a pure kr guru he will explain it much better! do a search on flowed cases. ill find the other thread for you. all the work i have done is based on the hard work mj has done in developing the kr motor to make good power and TBH i have done far more than my ability on track deserves but my naff lap times aside the motor is impressive and aswell as speed it pulls very well from low down, all thanks to mj. i should have saved time and done the above really as this is a good improvment over stock. go to engine section and the thread i mean is titled ''matching barrels''

Matty21 · Post by **Matty21** » Thu Nov 01, 2007 12:59 pm

Cheers fellas, il have a look shortly, ive got all the body work i already have sanded down, just need to get a tack cloth and primer and will be ready to rumble,also when i turn 16 next year(may)i will hopefully becoming a paint and body technician so when im used to it(new job)il do any paintwork anyone needs doing.

Btw what should i do about rearsets atm even though im 6ft 1?

thanks
Matty#21

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Thu Nov 01, 2007 1:39 pm

Matty21 wrote:Btw what should i do about rearsets atm even though im 6ft 1?

thanks
Matty#21

The best thing really is to make your own. Mine are further about 120mm further back and 30mm higher than standard and use h***a RS250 GP footrests. You may well need your pegs somewhere different as your a fair bit taller than me, but once you know where you want them its just a case of getting some brackets knocked up.

The only problem is the gear change mechanicals. I used a Bandit gearlever, bored out to sit on a KR small end bearing with a spacer to compensate for the difference in lengths. I then made a length of bar to extend the arm and used the old lever point as a pivot point with a gearbox end selector on the end where the old gear lever sat. From there to the engine I kept as standard. Took me about 3-4 hours to make it all and I'm very happy with it. It's altered the riding position and it's now more head down arse up.

If I remember I'll post some pics up tonight.

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Thu Nov 01, 2007 8:24 pm

Quick photo of my rearset.

Matty21 · Post by **Matty21** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 5:32 pm

is there anyway of doing a rearset whilst still using the same gear lever and rod, i mean i got size 11 feet so reaching isnt too much of a problem..any ideas would be great.

Thanks

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:49 pm

Yep you can but there is a limit on how far you can move it and maintain a decent riding position. Also as the gearlevers are NLA, finding a way of fitting something different means no nightmares if you drop the bike.

Matty21 · Post by **Matty21** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 1:21 pm

i just remebered i have an old rs250 h***a tail unit

rekon it would fit?

Also if i do that is it worth getting the front?

cheers

Matty#21

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:30 pm

Tried a h***a RS front faring on mine and its too tall. So I ended up selling the darn thing. It just never fitted right or looked right.

Matty21 · Post by **Matty21** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:41 pm

ok cheers, what about the single seat unit?

Cheers

any more ideas apart from 'prilla?

cheers

mgtkr1 · Post by **mgtkr1** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 10:51 pm

all the newer gp fairings are too small, the early-mid 90's fairings are much smaller, perhaps too small? a tz of 91 can be made to fit but i have no details. tz fairings are very attractive from this era and if used with a tz or rs seat will look very much a pukka racer.