Kips links

[Tambo]

Has anyone tried making up their own rose jointed links ?

I picked up some 3mm links from a RC model shop today. They've got a brass centre, but can only get them with some sort of plastic or nylon outer because metal to metal would cause electrical interference which is seemingly a bad thing in the world of remote control

Mechanically I'm sure it will work, but I'm not sure how hot it will get, and how that will affect the strength of the plastic.

My original links were snapped on one of the 3mm rods, which either means theyre under a lot of load (doubt it), or it had been weakened by impact or ham fistedness (much more likely )

Also, I can't see why they are rose jointed as there isn't any movement other than rotational - perhaps a straight bush and sleeve would do ??

Any thoughts or suggestions ?

[the-elf]

Just started stripping my bike down for the winter re-build and I found that the thread in the end of one of mine had stripped it's self . Darn things were brand new at the start of the season. IIRC someone on the old forum made some for his bike using a set from a remote control car so it can be done.

[KwakOn]

I would say they do need a rose joint as the PV's bounce up and down a fair bit. Somone did say they had used the RC stuff on the road and it was fine.

[Tambo]

These ones are for a plane

Is a big shop, but they didn't know of anyone that does metal / metal ones for rc stuff because of the radio interference it creates. The 3mm ones I got were the biggest they had, but like I say, I'm a bit concerned about the strength required, and how they will stand up to the heat.

I've got a mate 'borrowing' a cd parts list from some massive engineering crowd that make everything (but don't have a web site) so we'll see what that turns up.

Any chance you could measure the centre to centres of your links so I can check if mine have stretched ?

Can't see how there's enough load on these things to break rods, and strip threads I wander if there's too much play, or poor adjustment pushing them to an angle where they 'lock' rather than rotate ??

[Cliff]

I think it's shear vibration that takes them out, just look at a badly worn set bouncing around when the bike is on idle. I mean, they are not even lubed! Didn't John-b put a post on the old forum about a set he had that were custom made? Any pic's John, if you still have the bike?

[Tambo]

Here's the brass / plastic links I got. Spoke with another RC fanatic - recons they never use metal / metal ones. Found some proper spherical rod ends on an engineering site with a m3 end, and 3mm bore £37 each
Plus the overall dimensions were huge

Will keep looking, but in the meantime what's your thoughts on these ?

[KwakOn]

I think the plastic would be fine, I would use them myself if they are enough £ less than the std stuff. Of course it wont be that long before I need some, and the pulley/actuator for the PV cables (which is discontinued). Actually I may just lock the PV's in the high RPM position when the parts are too worn, after all round the track you dont want to drop out of the powerband

[corky]

The links that i got and posted on the last site where steering arm linkages off a rc car (cant remember what it was called now..thundercar or something..) got one set left but gave a set to a member from this site dont know if they fitted them. my mate fitted them to his and has done 800ish miles with no problems. they were plastic on plastic, vhard so will wear less than soft aluminium alloy. they also came with the connecting rods which are the same as the KR.

oh and only cost about £8 a set..

will try and see if he has the details still...

[Tambo]

That's interesting that the plastic seems to stand up to the temperatures

These ones are 75p each, and I picked up some 3mm ali rod that'll do 3 sets for £1.00, and £1.00 for 10 M3 screws, so it's not breaking the bank - even if they were replaced every 1000 miles or so ?

From what I can see, they can't do any real damage if they fail, so it's worth a try.

I'm also pre-empting a pulley shortage in the future, so I've been measuring them and drawing them up as my mate was looking for some practise on his lathe this winter They're not the easiest things to copy without a CNC, but it should be do-able That's the handy thing about having your bike in 1000 bits - all these things are accessible

[corky]

got a reply from a model shop so going to give them a try..
Hi Mark,
We have in stock part no F-RCA 127/M3/200, which is a 3m/m bar threaded down one end only for a distance of 20m/m. They are steel and could be cut to length and threaded the other end, if you can do this.There are 4 in a pack for £3.24.They are 200m/m long
We also have part no 0120C which is a plastic part with a ball link in the end which takes a 2m/m bolt and will screw on to the 3m/m rod. 2 in a pack for £1.79. We have a minimun Credit Card charge of £10.00 and a £1.00 charge towards the postage.
If these parts are of any interest to you let us know how many you will need,allong with address and credit card number.
Regards,
http://www.the-modelfactory.co.uk/pg_menu.htm

[KwakOn]

Good find, tenner for whole set plus a couple spares,

I'll be gettin me a set

[Tambo]

Good find Do you know if the rod ends are plastic or metal ?

Have you guys tried them out yet ?

I'm struggling to get any shed or computer time these days, but hopefully it won't be long before I'm needing these bits

[frog32]

found these on yahoo japan
there nearly the same as a set i had on a kr1s
worked very well

[Tambo]

Look neat

How much were they, and how did you get hold of them ?

My Japanese isn't too great

[col]

they look like they're just popped on instead of having a screw to hold em in place. wont they just pop off with vibration?