revs/2 , regrec >14V

hacky · Post by **hacky** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:31 pm

Hi guys, After the winter-break my battery was dead again. It was nearly a year old, but smoking hot and completely dry after a ride before the engine completely stopped...

Imeasured the voltage over the battery and it reads about 18 volts with 6k revs!

So I decided to replace the regulator/rectofier. I replaced the battery, the engine works nice, but some problems arose:

1. The voltage on the new battery still hits 18 volts with 6k revs.
2. The rev. counter only shows about half of the actual revs. This affects also the power valves which don't even open. (The neede will never hit 6k)
3. The right turning-indicator doesn't flash,but just stays on.
4. The right turning-light stays off. (probably broken due to over-Voltage)

Does the pickup-coil tell the CDI what 's the revs? How can it be half then? I checked the distance to the rotor...

Can one of the stator be broken? How can this generate an over-voltage? It should get less when a generator breaks down...

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:05 pm

A knackered rev counter points to an volyage problem resulting from a blowen reg. Also the CDI tends to fry and that'll need repairing or replacing. Blubs are also blown etc.

Did you replace the old reg with a new item or a second hand one? It sounds like its still knacked along with your CDI and/or your rev counter.

hacky · Post by **hacky** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:27 pm

I also tried another CDI. It had the same symptoms.
It was a second hand reg/rec. Could that be the only reason that the voltage is too high? I didn't check the wiring, but the cable connections look OK.
does the rev ounter itself steer the powervalve servo? I don't need the rev counter for the power valves, do I?

I tried to measure the old reg, but with a digital machine it reads pretty high resistor values. At least very different from what they should be. I'll try to compare the 2 regs.

ScottaKR · Post by **ScottaKR** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:31 pm

Sounds like the second hand reg is a dud as well.
If the powervalves arnt working then it's likely that the CDI has been damaged.
Get yourself a new reg so you dont fry anything else (like the second CDI) then start checking and replaceing the other damaged items AFTER youve confirmed that the charge rate is correct.

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:04 pm

ScottaKR wrote:Sounds like the second hand reg is a dud as well.
If the powervalves arnt working then it's likely that the CDI has been damaged.
Get yourself a new reg so you dont fry anything else (like the second CDI) then start checking and replaceing the other damaged items AFTER youve confirmed that the charge rate is correct.

Yep, ScottaKR is correct, as soon as you said you got a second hand one I guessed the worse. If the reg blows it can fry the CDI, battery and rev counter, plus the odd minor part. In the worse case you'll need to replace all three.

The CDI controls everything, and yours sounds like its dead. If you have blown the Rev counter as well then the bike won't run right as it works of the impulses from the ignition so it'll need replacing.

hacky · Post by **hacky** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:32 am

heard about a yamaha reg that works better and is cheaper. Are the wires connected the same way? Anyone has the type#?

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 2:32 pm

Look in the KRchive section and there is a supplier of New non genuine ones listed in there.

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 3:25 pm

the-elf wrote:Look in the KRchive section and there is a supplier of New non genuine ones listed in there.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/kawasaki ... 699-0.html

it says the RR26 suits the KR1S.

Then you could also buy said item in Holland:

http://www.carmo.nl/models/KAWASAKI/ER5.htm

cheers,
Charles

hacky · Post by **hacky** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:29 pm

That's great. I'm getting a new one then. I checked the othe CDI and it still steers the power valves. I noticed one diffference: There is a small delay when initializing the valves. It opens, waits aout 3 secs and then closes... my old one just opened and closed immediately. Funny thing...

I'm going to make my own rev. counter. /tacho I'm planning to use a pic (arduino) to measure time between pulses. I have a led array and an LCD. Think I'm going for the led-array to keep it stupid simple. I think I'll add an over-voltage led too.

I'll make that led red

Anyone has any tips or good ideas?

Bikemike · Post by **Bikemike** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:04 pm

If I remember rightly a Kr1 opens the kips valves and closes straight away, but the Kr-1s waits a couple of seconds before closing. I reckon your new one is Kr-1s.
Hope you get it all sorted soon,

Mike

hacky · Post by **hacky** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:15 pm

That's funny. So I had a real KR1 CDI before?

I'm sure it will be all OK soon. CDI sorted, replace the reg/rec. most of the bulbs. Maybe make a new tacho or just leave it out until I find one.

thanks guys, for the info's

rgvlee · Post by **rgvlee** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 2:23 am

I love it how the reg/rect takes everything with it

The RR26 reg/rect will require you to drill new holes in the reg/rect mounting plate, but other than that it is plug and play from memory.

1234 is the KR1 CDI, 1287 is the KR-1S.