PWK 35mm Carbs

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:31 pm

For those that have been asking I use DEL needles in my 35mm carbs
See link below which explains what the 3 characters DEL mean
http://keihincarbs.com/images/spilli-PJPWK3439.jpg

This needle is different to that used in the KR-1R - I couldn't get the bike to carburate properly on the stock needle.

Remember what works with my engine may not be best for yours

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:12 pm

Thanks mark. What clip position are they in?

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:26 pm

middle

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 2:31 am

Thanks dude

,
Got to get the top end refresh done this week (took the whole of last weekend to clean up the garage

) then book a day on the dyno to get the carbs, ignition and power valves set up right.

Still got to send my membership and ACU license form in but as I stuck in Kent (Grain Power Station) for over 14 weeks this year and DP arn't doing brands

I'm going to miss the start of the season big time, so I'm not in too much of a hurry ATM.

BTW do you and any of our southern friends fancy doing a brands indy trackday??? Still got the use of a company van and as I'll be living in a hotel near by, well I'm up for it.
I've got 14 weeks of living in kent this year and I love the indy track.

mgtkr1 · Post by **mgtkr1** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 2:55 pm

got my forms sorted ages ago(last week!!). thats well organised for me but this year im hungry for racing my head is in gear and im reet up for it. last year for a few reasons my heart wasnt in it and my disastorous first outing rattled my confidance big style. falling off on the warm up lap wich is as stupid as it gets resulted in my pathetic lap times/paranoa and damaged pride/bike. after that tumble i didnt really want to be there at the time, cruised round half arsed and generally couldnt wait to go home. i tried for thew last race, got quicker then fell off at barn corner on the last lap. what happens when you dont sort out suspension. ect. my fault bad prep ect and zero experience. anyway, thanks mark for the link and elf, dissapointed we wont see you for the first couple of rounds. will see you soon.

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:44 pm

Yep I'm in Kent from the end of March till near the end of July so I'll miss alot of the season.

TwoStroke Institute · Post by **TwoStroke Institute** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 1:28 pm

I just check today and RGV carbs go almost straight on.A new set of more upward manifolds(3-5mm) would be required.Jetting would be very close out of the box, just need to equalise the settings.With added power jet function also.
The RGV electrics would also swap over quite easily. Would ditch the waisted spark, run a aftermarket ignition controller have the servo drive the KIPS and the VJ22 carb air bleeds if you wanted. Cheap as also.

mgtkr1 · Post by **mgtkr1** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:10 pm

what about fitting the stator/flywheel?? if your gonna go down that route surely a tz ignition would be more beneficial in race/track terms ie no provision for lights. would rgv stator/rotor fit easily? chances of finding stage ? kit electrics for the rgv are much bigger than finding f3 kr stuff albeit just so if it physically fits easy that would be a great stride in the right direction. the std kr ignition is shit.

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:29 pm

Tried RGV carbs many years back - pig to set up. Bike certainly didn't run out of the box. Developed a dislike for Mikuni carbs, PWK much much easier to set up.

Yes RGV carbs do fit in KR rubbers.

I wouldn't say the standard ignition is shit I am still using it. What I believe it does is limit the RPM you can get out of the motor.

Even though I have two programmable ignitions, 2 x TZ ignition with looms and coils and I did have a kit RGV ignition never fitted them. Reason I haven't hit the limit that can be got out of the stock KR ignition.

Having said that I know 2 F250 machines that make more power than mine albeit they have to rev to 12,000 to do it and below 10500 rpm they are 10hp down on the KR. If I could maintain the torque 32ftlb I make at 10,500 up at 12,000rpm the Old KR would push out 73 Dynopro HP 6HP up on the best F250. The only way to do that is with a different ignition. One problem I might have is the motor would self destruct - though I am working on a cure for its inherent weakness - the barrels.

TwoStroke Institute · Post by **TwoStroke Institute** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:46 pm

I have had many many years playing with the VM32/34SS and love them.Got stacks of jets and needles to.
The amount of times people have put "my electrics have died" on here points to the KR ignition not being the best.RGV ignitions on the other hand never seem to fail. All those RD/RZ blokes that bin the waisted spark don't ever go back to the standard ignition. The TZ ignition will have peak near 13000 they are not ideal.However if you subtract 1000-1500 rpm from the curve you bring peak back down.Result more power everywhere.
Why bother with all that old kit stuff, I don't like light flywheels,yes they 'spin up' faster but they drop of revs just as fast. The 21 has the stator bolted to the cases(I'll measure the taper dia tonight).The lighting circuit makes nil difference to the output of the engine.
Oh yes the VJ22 cable splitter box has a 'free' 0-5V TPS in there

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:11 pm

You forgot to mention emulsion tubes - need those as well if setting up the VM carbs. Plus the air jets - the really small ones.

KR ignition windings fail - had a couple go. Blackboxes so far have been reliable though I know others have had problems.

TwoStroke Institute · Post by **TwoStroke Institute** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:11 am

The Q-6(I think) from the VJ21 is leaner than the 22 at Q-8 which is set for the air bleeds.
Big thing is if not using the RGV cable splitter box to drill and tap a small hole so a bolt can go down and act as a throttle slide stop.Otherwise the slide goes to far up and always runs rich at peak(don't ask how I know this

). Air corrector jets are easy as they are a size and soldering up and redrilling is an easy task. They normaly require a 0.9mm main air corrector rather than the 1.1 standard.