OK, thanks everyone. So just to be clear, when we are talking 'stator', does that include flywheel and all the coil assembly behind, or just certain bits. There are also the pick up/trigger coils. If CDI is suspect, how do I know? All the KIPS stuff works normally...
I have to say, it feels like ignition is randomly retarding and gets worse the longer I ride it. As I don't have a puller, perhaps I should start with the CDI? Also, will both the KR1 and KR1-S CDI's work, or does it have to be a KR1?
Sorry for all the dumb questions, but if I am to continue forking out on spares I don't need, I may as well make sure they are right for the model. Thanks all. Any further advice appreciated. Craig
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- JanBros
- Avgas Sniffer
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CDI's can be swapped. some say there is not feelable difference between them, I tested a KR1 CDI once on my S and I thought/felt it had lesser over rev.
but go for the stator first. there are 3 seperate coils on it for the ignition, and it's those 3 that fail .
You can rewind them yourself, it's even not that difficult, just takes a lot off time.
and yes, the stator is the hole plate behind the generator.
but go for the stator first. there are 3 seperate coils on it for the ignition, and it's those 3 that fail .
You can rewind them yourself, it's even not that difficult, just takes a lot off time.
and yes, the stator is the hole plate behind the generator.
My ultimate goal is to die young as late as possible !
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- Premix Junkie
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- the-elf
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look in KR-chive un der electrical parts for details on where you can buy re-manufactured stators.
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