I've started so I'll finish
- pablo
- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1546
- Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:37 pm
- Location: Co Durham
Thanks chaps I'm pleased with the way it's coming on.SP_BOTT wrote:That's looking very good mate, what was the problem with the piston in the end, or did I miss that somewhere. Did you get all the original bolts replated or buy new ones?
I thought I might have had a bit of a problem with one of the pistons being a bit tight in the barrel,but I removed both cleaned everything with carb cleaner.Then refitted everything with a fresh application of 2st oil and all appears well.
I had the original bolts replated cos I want to keep it looking original.Some of them were too far gone to be replated but I had enough spares to replace them.
While I was stripping the motor I found a couple of the outer case studs were doing bugger all cos the threads had been damaged

While I'm at it can I ask some advice.Am I right in thinking I can prime the oil pump using a syringe to fill the pump via the hose from the tank.Then turn the motor to fill the lines

Thanks in advance
"Turned out nice again"
- Howie
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 2055
- Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:33 pm
- Location: East Yorkshire
You should be able to fill the oil pump using gravity. On top of the oil pump should be a bleed screw, just fill the tank as normal, undo the bleed screw then wait for the oil to seep out.While I'm at it can I ask some advice.Am I right in thinking I can prime the oil pump using a syringe to fill the pump via the hose from the tank.Then turn the motor to fill the lines
I would use the syringe to fill the lines though! You don't want the engine running to bleed them. I have always added a small amount of oil to the petrol on first start up, just in case, although some say this isn't necessary.
- Howie
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 2055
- Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:33 pm
- Location: East Yorkshire
Yep thats the idea Pablo,
Better to be safe than sorry etc etc.
Doing it with an auxiliary tank also allows you to test the oil pumps performance by removing the check valves & timing the flow of oil over a set time.
But please don't ask me what the flow rate should be, cos of the top of my head, I haven't a clue. Can probably look it up for you though if you want?
Better to be safe than sorry etc etc.
Doing it with an auxiliary tank also allows you to test the oil pumps performance by removing the check valves & timing the flow of oil over a set time.
But please don't ask me what the flow rate should be, cos of the top of my head, I haven't a clue. Can probably look it up for you though if you want?
- Tambo
- Heavy Smoker
- Posts: 441
- Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 9:10 pm
- Location: Scottish Borders
I connected the oil up before fitting the casing, and ran the pump on a drill to bleed the system right up to the carb rubbers. Another tip is to hold the pump on 'full' for a minute or so on start up to have max oil for the lowest possible engine speed.Howie wrote:You should be able to fill the oil pump using gravity. On top of the oil pump should be a bleed screw, just fill the tank as normal, undo the bleed screw then wait for the oil to seep out.While I'm at it can I ask some advice.Am I right in thinking I can prime the oil pump using a syringe to fill the pump via the hose from the tank.Then turn the motor to fill the lines
I would use the syringe to fill the lines though! You don't want the engine running to bleed them. I have always added a small amount of oil to the petrol on first start up, just in case, although some say this isn't necessary.
It's always a nervous moment

Kr1s c3, vfr750fg, Dnepr MT11, Pegaso 650
- pablo
- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1546
- Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:37 pm
- Location: Co Durham
- martin
- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1610
- Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:35 pm
- Location: luton,beds
this is how i did mine.
block the reed block holes off.
get two lenghs of clear tubing and attach
each one to the ends of the oil lines,and use a couple of
small bottles to catch the oil,
fill the petrol tank with premix.33.1
bleed the oil pump via the oil pump bleed screw.
then run the bike up .
hold the pump lever fully open whilst the bike is
running[will bleed quicker]
block the reed block holes off.
get two lenghs of clear tubing and attach
each one to the ends of the oil lines,and use a couple of
small bottles to catch the oil,
fill the petrol tank with premix.33.1
bleed the oil pump via the oil pump bleed screw.
then run the bike up .
hold the pump lever fully open whilst the bike is
running[will bleed quicker]
current bikes
fully restored green/white kr1 b2
fully restored green/white kr1 b2
- pablo
- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1546
- Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:37 pm
- Location: Co Durham
Things have come to a complete standstill on the KR1s front due to two new additions to the family.I dare'nt take my eyes off them for a minute.

They're a right handfull
They're both Border terriers.The big'un is a 16mth old and the little'un is 8 weeks.I can't get owt done but they have had me in fits of laughter today.

They're a right handfull

"Turned out nice again"
- Howie
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 2055
- Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:33 pm
- Location: East Yorkshire
- pablo
- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1546
- Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:37 pm
- Location: Co Durham
Went out to the garage yesterday hoping to start the KR1S.
Fitted two new spark plugs,nice strong spark,Filled the system with coolant,hung the left side exhaust (temp measure still hav'nt decoked them).Then went to hang the right side exhaust and noticed a black line down the weld on the bottom engine mount
Fitted me glasses to me head and a nice inch long crack came nicely into focus
I'm not a p'd off as I thought I would've been at this point.I need to get it repaired without doing to much damage to the powder coat
I reckon I missed it at the point where the frame went to the powder coaters and the PC has hidden it till I fitted the motor
Who knows.Anyway it's there and I'll have to sort it.It's the first real set back I've had.
Still would've been nice to hear it spark up
Fitted two new spark plugs,nice strong spark,Filled the system with coolant,hung the left side exhaust (temp measure still hav'nt decoked them).Then went to hang the right side exhaust and noticed a black line down the weld on the bottom engine mount


I'm not a p'd off as I thought I would've been at this point.I need to get it repaired without doing to much damage to the powder coat

I reckon I missed it at the point where the frame went to the powder coaters and the PC has hidden it till I fitted the motor

Who knows.Anyway it's there and I'll have to sort it.It's the first real set back I've had.
Still would've been nice to hear it spark up

"Turned out nice again"