The reason I'm here.
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- Newbie
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The reason I'm here.
Hello everyone, new on here today as a member but I've been sneaking a look as a guest over the last week.
I bought this last week and will be making a start on it shortly. Starting with a full strip and a look at the engine.
The bike hasn't been run for a long long time but despite this it kicked up when i got it home and put some petrol in it after about 5-10 kicks
The engine sounds sweet but the powervales are damaged beyond repair where they come through the heads and the linkages/cables/pullies and servo are missing. Where will I get all this from and how much will I be looking at?
Apart from that the bikes not in bad shape. It's a good base for resoration or i may look at Hybrid
I paid £500 for it which I thought was good but I'm sure you'll tell me if not.
Thanks for any advice that comes.
Mark.
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I bought this last week and will be making a start on it shortly. Starting with a full strip and a look at the engine.
The bike hasn't been run for a long long time but despite this it kicked up when i got it home and put some petrol in it after about 5-10 kicks
The engine sounds sweet but the powervales are damaged beyond repair where they come through the heads and the linkages/cables/pullies and servo are missing. Where will I get all this from and how much will I be looking at?
Apart from that the bikes not in bad shape. It's a good base for resoration or i may look at Hybrid
I paid £500 for it which I thought was good but I'm sure you'll tell me if not.
Thanks for any advice that comes.
Mark.
[/img]
- 500bernie
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 3398
- Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:22 am
- Location: Teesside
Hi Mark,
Nice to see another "Red n Grey".
The servo unit can be obtained by putting a post in the wanted section and one of the guys will come back to you.
The other bits are also available here:
viewtopic.php?t=6145
viewtopic.php?t=5180
Good luck with the rebuild, they are all a great bunch on this forum so you will get plenty of good advice.
Cheers,
Bernie
Nice to see another "Red n Grey".
The servo unit can be obtained by putting a post in the wanted section and one of the guys will come back to you.
The other bits are also available here:
viewtopic.php?t=6145
viewtopic.php?t=5180
Good luck with the rebuild, they are all a great bunch on this forum so you will get plenty of good advice.
Cheers,
Bernie
Firecracker Red and Grey C3 300
- pablo
- Premix Junkie
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- Location: Co Durham
- Howie
- Avgas Sniffer
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- Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:33 pm
- Location: East Yorkshire
Welcome to the forum Mark,
From the pic that looks a bargain at £500. I have to admit the red ones are growing on me
I would keep it original (i'm only saying that because all of mine have been erm....modded in some way or another ) on the outside at least.
But just remember, its your bike & sod what anyone else says.
From the pic that looks a bargain at £500. I have to admit the red ones are growing on me
I would keep it original (i'm only saying that because all of mine have been erm....modded in some way or another ) on the outside at least.
But just remember, its your bike & sod what anyone else says.
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- Newbie
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Howie/Pablo
Unsure as to what I'm doing with bike. I like the idea of a fully restored bike but it's not on its original engine so I don't feel that I have to.
I like the ones I've seen with Banana arms and upside downers. What ever I do I need more ride hieght at the rear. I'm 6'4" and it feels like I'm sat on the floor at the minute. Paint work will stay as true to original as possible.
Salty
thanks for the offer of the wheels but after I've sorted the engine I'll only be able to afford a tin of red from Halfords
Unsure as to what I'm doing with bike. I like the idea of a fully restored bike but it's not on its original engine so I don't feel that I have to.
I like the ones I've seen with Banana arms and upside downers. What ever I do I need more ride hieght at the rear. I'm 6'4" and it feels like I'm sat on the floor at the minute. Paint work will stay as true to original as possible.
Salty
thanks for the offer of the wheels but after I've sorted the engine I'll only be able to afford a tin of red from Halfords
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- Newbie
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- Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:45 am
- Location: Wakefield
It's the second bargain I've had. Last years was the best.
I bought my LC from a lad over the phone. He lives in London and the bike was up here in Yorkshire at his mums. I'd seen the front end but the bike had 7 years of junk piled on it.
I got that for £500. When I pulled it out of the garage apart from the spiders and fur it had a nice pair of Allspeed's and a double braced JMC swing arm
I swapped the swing arm for a full set of RGV running gear. Happy Days...
I just hope that next years £500 bargain will be a RG500 barn find [-o<
I'll PM you at some point Chrles for the valves and pullies etc.
I bought my LC from a lad over the phone. He lives in London and the bike was up here in Yorkshire at his mums. I'd seen the front end but the bike had 7 years of junk piled on it.
I got that for £500. When I pulled it out of the garage apart from the spiders and fur it had a nice pair of Allspeed's and a double braced JMC swing arm
I swapped the swing arm for a full set of RGV running gear. Happy Days...
I just hope that next years £500 bargain will be a RG500 barn find [-o<
I'll PM you at some point Chrles for the valves and pullies etc.
- ScottaKR
- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1521
- Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:52 pm
- Location: Australia
Welcome from the colonies mate.
Looks like youve done pretty well picking up a mostly complete, running 1S for that money considering what they've been fetching on Ebay over there of late.
You can of course get the valves and pullies 2nd hand, but being cast alloy they're usually quite worn. The valves wear in the area that the seals run, and the pullies where the end of the cable fits, letting the cable fall out once worn badly (so be aware if you choose 2nd hand). If youve got the coin though, get the ones from Charles (they're some very nice kit ).
The reason the clutch stars break is because sometimes people rush the job and don't take the time to tighten them incrementaly and in sequence. If you do a bolt up too much before tightening up the rest, the pressure of the springs will put too much pressure on the star in a localised area causing it to snap. Easy enough to avoid if you take your time as long as it dosn't already have small stress fractures from previous people lacking mechanical sympathy.
Be sure to have a good read through some of the older posts in the Engine, Electrical, and other related sections, and of course, don't be afraid to ask questions. We're a pretty friendly lot in here, and always willing to help solve any problems you may come across.
And most importantly, WE LOVE PICUTRES!!!!!!!! So be sure to post some up during the rebuild/resto.... Please. [-o<
Looks like youve done pretty well picking up a mostly complete, running 1S for that money considering what they've been fetching on Ebay over there of late.
You can of course get the valves and pullies 2nd hand, but being cast alloy they're usually quite worn. The valves wear in the area that the seals run, and the pullies where the end of the cable fits, letting the cable fall out once worn badly (so be aware if you choose 2nd hand). If youve got the coin though, get the ones from Charles (they're some very nice kit ).
The reason the clutch stars break is because sometimes people rush the job and don't take the time to tighten them incrementaly and in sequence. If you do a bolt up too much before tightening up the rest, the pressure of the springs will put too much pressure on the star in a localised area causing it to snap. Easy enough to avoid if you take your time as long as it dosn't already have small stress fractures from previous people lacking mechanical sympathy.
Be sure to have a good read through some of the older posts in the Engine, Electrical, and other related sections, and of course, don't be afraid to ask questions. We're a pretty friendly lot in here, and always willing to help solve any problems you may come across.
And most importantly, WE LOVE PICUTRES!!!!!!!! So be sure to post some up during the rebuild/resto.... Please. [-o<
KR250 Tandem Twin (Naked)
KR1 Red/White
KR1S Track Bike (has been put on hold for now)
ZXR750 H1 (Winter project)
KR1 Red/White
KR1S Track Bike (has been put on hold for now)
ZXR750 H1 (Winter project)
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R6 Shock conversion here and here will give you more ride height and some bits to twiddle with but you will need to mod the airboxlong un wrote:I'm 6'4" and it feels like I'm sat on the floor at the minute.
Cheers
AL
"A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools. " - Douglas Adams
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I don't think anyone changed the front wheel for a RS/RGV one while using the standard forks. For the RGV rear wheel in the standard swingarm you just need some spacers:long un wrote:Thanks Al.
Do RS or RGV wheels go in with relative ease?
viewtopic.php?t=1308
If you go for 17" you'll need to change the (standard) shock . It steers very fast, can't say it's unstable except on bumpy roads ......long un wrote: Was thinking about going 17" for tyre choice but also reading Charles comments about the additional ride height on the 18" wheel. I bet its either the fastest steering bike in the world or the most unstable
Charles