There is a knocking sound coming from the right hand cylinder. It's not a very loud sound but it is noticeable. If I put my finger on top of the KIPS link on this cylinder then I can really feel the knocking. The bike is otherwise OK.
What could this knocking be? Is it a sign of imminent death?
Help- Knocking from right hand cylinder KR1-s C2
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Kr1smd
- Newbie
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:17 pm
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Kr1smd
- Newbie
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:17 pm
[quote="Luders"]Welcome to the forums.
It could be your little end, but I would get the top end stripped down straight away and have a good look around if I were you.
[ Thanks for the welcome . Over the last few days I've started to strip the top end (not as easy as i'd hoped.: I'm technicaly minded but no mechanic)
Any hints on loosening the cylinder head from the cylider it seems stuck?
Is it absolutely necessary to remove the temp gauge ?
I thought that while i've got it stripped i'd replace the cylinders/bearings etc and send the cylinder for replating (its done 25K miles on the original set so they must be reaching end of life?
Its difficult to choose cylinders- after googling someone has always had a bad/ good experience with any of the cylinders available ]
Nevertheless recommendations would be appreciated.- i thought of some from Woessner as Mitaka seems more often than not to be mentioned negatively . Bearings from PJME seem OK?]
It could be your little end, but I would get the top end stripped down straight away and have a good look around if I were you.
[ Thanks for the welcome . Over the last few days I've started to strip the top end (not as easy as i'd hoped.: I'm technicaly minded but no mechanic)
Any hints on loosening the cylinder head from the cylider it seems stuck?
Is it absolutely necessary to remove the temp gauge ?
I thought that while i've got it stripped i'd replace the cylinders/bearings etc and send the cylinder for replating (its done 25K miles on the original set so they must be reaching end of life?
Its difficult to choose cylinders- after googling someone has always had a bad/ good experience with any of the cylinders available ]
Nevertheless recommendations would be appreciated.- i thought of some from Woessner as Mitaka seems more often than not to be mentioned negatively . Bearings from PJME seem OK?]-
Luders
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 3926
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:29 am
- Location: Oxfordshire
Not sure what you mean by removing the temp gauge, but if you mean the thermostat on top of the cylinder head then the answer is no, you don't have to remove this to get the cylinder head off.
It's perfectly normal for the head to be firmly seated to the barrels. I usually find the use of gentle (and I do mean gentle) persuasion will see the head come off with ease. I gently tap the side of the head, just to break the seal on the head gasket. Remember you're working with an alloy, so treat it accordingly and you'll be fine.
Once you have the head removed, you can get the barrels off to get a good look at what's going on in there.
Check the amount of play in the little ends before removing the pistons. If you're replacing the little end roller bearings, you want to be sure that was the cause of noise you heard.
Given the age and mileage and providing money is not an issue, I would recommend and complete top end rebuild. Little ends, pistons, rings and a barrel replate too if required.
Hope that helps.
It's perfectly normal for the head to be firmly seated to the barrels. I usually find the use of gentle (and I do mean gentle) persuasion will see the head come off with ease. I gently tap the side of the head, just to break the seal on the head gasket. Remember you're working with an alloy, so treat it accordingly and you'll be fine.
Once you have the head removed, you can get the barrels off to get a good look at what's going on in there.
Check the amount of play in the little ends before removing the pistons. If you're replacing the little end roller bearings, you want to be sure that was the cause of noise you heard.
Given the age and mileage and providing money is not an issue, I would recommend and complete top end rebuild. Little ends, pistons, rings and a barrel replate too if required.
Hope that helps.
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JanBros
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 3319
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:50 pm
- Location: the land of Francorchamps
Woessner are about the best 2-stroke pistons you can get, but there is a problem with the KR1-ones : it seems the pins for securing the rings are placed "at random somewhere in the region where the originals are" 
see : viewtopic.php?t=4648
see : viewtopic.php?t=4648
My ultimate goal is to die young as late as possible !
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Kr1smd
- Newbie
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:17 pm
At last I’ve managed to remove the top end. Battled for a while with a stripped cross head screw on the KIPS valve mounting screws.
There was a lot of gooey black carbon/burnt oil on top of each kip valve. The top of the cylinder heads were also carboned up.
No noticeable slack in either conrod. I don't think the cylinders themselves were too bad although I’m no expert. Before removal the compression in the cylinders was a little on the low side (120 psi) but still within the service limit.
Any ideas why there was so much black carbon/burnt oil?
I foresee some problems in reassembling the cylinders. How do I apply the correct torque to the cylinder bolts-The two on the inside facing the front don't have much room around them. Is there a particular socket set that someone can recommend that can fit in here?
There was a lot of gooey black carbon/burnt oil on top of each kip valve. The top of the cylinder heads were also carboned up.
No noticeable slack in either conrod. I don't think the cylinders themselves were too bad although I’m no expert. Before removal the compression in the cylinders was a little on the low side (120 psi) but still within the service limit.
Any ideas why there was so much black carbon/burnt oil?
I foresee some problems in reassembling the cylinders. How do I apply the correct torque to the cylinder bolts-The two on the inside facing the front don't have much room around them. Is there a particular socket set that someone can recommend that can fit in here?
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KR-1R
- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1588
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 2:24 am
CYLINDER NUT TORQUING
.
.
buy a cheap spanner, grind it down where it binds
you can torque the others down, and tighten the inside ones to 'similar feel' of the others tightness
... if you are really pedantic you could use a spring balance (like grocers /fishing anglers use)
and calculate the amount of force (weight) that needs to be pulled on the scales (hooked to the spanner's length).
Torque = Force x Distance
YOU NEED TO WORK OUT WHY THE WRIST PINS DISCOLOURATION DO NOT MATCH EACH OTHER
AND THE PICKUP ON THE SIDE OF ONE PISTON
.
buy a cheap spanner, grind it down where it binds
you can torque the others down, and tighten the inside ones to 'similar feel' of the others tightness
... if you are really pedantic you could use a spring balance (like grocers /fishing anglers use)
and calculate the amount of force (weight) that needs to be pulled on the scales (hooked to the spanner's length).
Torque = Force x Distance
YOU NEED TO WORK OUT WHY THE WRIST PINS DISCOLOURATION DO NOT MATCH EACH OTHER
AND THE PICKUP ON THE SIDE OF ONE PISTON
Last edited by KR-1R on Wed May 18, 2011 11:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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twostrokesmoker
- Heavy Smoker
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:24 pm
- Location: Lowton, Nr Warrington
